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Routes in Neptune

Agent Orange (with direct start) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A1
Arc Of A Diver T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beach Foreplay S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Booted from the Galley T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Catch the Wave S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip Tide S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cream of Belay T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Endless Edge T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Finding Guinness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finding Nemo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Fall T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jaws T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jimmy Dean T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Land Shark T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Layback 'n Cruz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ma'adim T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Muscle Shoals S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Naranja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Orange, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Phillipino Fighting Fish T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prime Rib of RURP T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rapture of the Steep T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Red Tide S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reef Stricken S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Salty Dogs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scimitar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scuffle and Dust Cough T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Shanadoo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Shanashee T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Stop Making Sense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Swept Away T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tide Me Over T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trend Generally Upwards S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unfathomable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Visceral Pull T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Warm and Free T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Where Eaglets Dare T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: JS and RR
Page Views: 2,181 total, 33/month
Shared By: Geir on Jun 30, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

Naranja is a challenging climb on the north face of Neptune. Its terrific first pitch has some fabulous climbing at a remarkably consistent grade. Its second pitch has some scary flakes; one option to avoid this pitch is to continue to the top on Agent Orange or to rappel after the first pitch. The Agent Orange linkup is shown on the beta photo and described here.

1) Start below and a bit right of a beautiful dihedral about 30' up. Climb to the dihedral and work your way up it using using brilliant stemming moves and great jams. Two cracks running parallel to the dihedral provide excellent protection and movement. Work through a tricky crux (11+) and continue by passing a small roof to its left. Bear toward the left side of the second roof and clip a bolt. Pull up under the roof, place pro with a long sling, and traverse left approximately ten feet to a belay ledge. This belay is shared with Jimmy Dean. Most of the climbing is in the 10+/11- range except for the crux.

2) The Agent Orange linkup: this is an airy pitch with some spectacular exposure, but with some grainy rock and spaced protection. From the belay climb up a 10 foot dihedral and traverse right on a ledge until you are a few feet left of the arete. Climb up to a bolt (committing 10+ moves) and continue up just left of the arete to a ledge. Belay on gear.

3) Continue on easy ground up and left to the anchor for Jimmy Dean. Alternatively, it is possible to continue following the arete straight up to a large ledge, but this is not recommended. The gear quickly becomes bad and the slab above is lichen covered.

Location

North face of Neptune. See beta photo and Squeezing the Lemmon.

Protection

Pitch one protects well with doubles to blue camalot and stoppers. Extra finger size cams are helpful. On pitch two a #4 camalot could be helpful as well. For the short third pitch singles of cams and stoppers are sufficient.

Fixed pro notes: With permission from Ray, the very old pin below the roof was replaced with a bolt. The second pitch bolt was also replaced. Another very old pin in the middle of the first pitch was pulled but not replaced as modern cams provide bomber protection here. Thanks to the ASCA for providing the bolts.

Photos

Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.11+
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.11+
Mitch, coming from a crusher like you that means a lot! Thanks! Anyways, I think this really is one of those routes that can feel much harder than it needs to be, simply because the (easy) crux beta is somewhat non-obvious. In other news, I heard it through the grapevine that someone finally pulled one of those scary blocks off down low (Megas?). There is some potentially sketchy rock in the first ~15 feet, so (for anyone else looking to get on it) be mindful and try to climb around the detached stuff! Oct 10, 2017
Mitch Beiser
Tucson, Arizona
  5.12-
Mitch Beiser   Tucson, Arizona
  5.12-
Austin, I truly admire how well you climb this route. JMO was showing me a video of you walking up it. It is too cool how each of us climb uniquely. In my opinion, I found Histoplasmosis slightly easier than this. The feet technique stem/slipper/smearing on this really challenged me. I plan on giving this at least a few more goes to perhaps get a better understanding of the difficulty. But for now, it did feel 12- to me, it was somewhat of a amnesia-flash considering I had tried it once two years ago when I wasn't even close to ready, and also I got to see plenty of strong climbers lead the way. Either way, + or - a grade... such a great route, and it protects well, which isn't plentiful on the Lemmon! Sep 13, 2017
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.11+
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.11+
Wonderful route. The climbing, although consistent in difficulty, isn't all that sustained (you're stemming the whole way, so rests abound). The crux is tricky, but not too hard (felt easier than Histoplasmosis). Jun 26, 2015
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
Congrats to Clay M on his redpoint of Naranja on 7/5!


Jul 6, 2013
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
+1000! Thanks ASCA!! Oct 16, 2012
Thank you ASCA! If you want to do something for your local climbing community, send them a check. It will help insure you have solid bolts to clip on the older routes. Oct 15, 2012
Jason Ogasian
South Lake Tahoe
Jason Ogasian   South Lake Tahoe
Two protection bolts, one on pitch 1 and one on pitch 2, were replaced in June 2012 thanks to support from the ASCA.



safeclimbing.org/ Oct 15, 2012