Maiden Voyage
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 32.46039, -110.78419 |
| FA: | Zack M, Cary K, EFR, Greg K. |
| Page Views: | 168 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Zack Miller on Sep 3, 2024 |
| Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
A 90ft pitch of tenuous technical micro crimping.
Unassuming start on some gritty granite trends left with some funky moves until you're deposited on the horn of the arete looking up at this seemingly blank sea of granite and lichen with thin diagonal crack seams that slice through all the way up. Sail upwards utilizing what little these crack seams have to offer. Keep trending left, trust your feet and even use some delicate balancing moves to reach far and side pull the arete to gain a high stance. From here now you trend out right to another diagonal crack seam with hidden bigger holds, but not necessarily easier climbing. You can get creative and turn some of those seams into under clings at this point while you work your way to clipping the chains.
A maiden voyage, a ships first journey. Many have laid eyes on this climb lowering from rapture but maybe have shied away from looking to closely due to the amount of lichen. I was looking for my first route to develop and felt inspired to look even closer, begin cleaning, and begin the journey. Many days out just wire bushing lichen off of every foot/hand/crack I could find, plus more. There’s no doubt more to clean as more people find new sequences. There's some beauty in the process of brushing off a nothing edge that ends up being the key to unlocking a sequence that fits your body, skills, and mindset.
Protection
12 bolts and 1 cable draw.
Note: When cleaning on lower, walk down the slab holding the rope and don’t let yourself swing big as is possible to swing too far left and get under the roof where it’s hard to pull back onto the slab. Clip yourself into the cable draw as a directional when cleaning.



2 Comments