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World-class Choss
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 5
votes
Routes in Neptune
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Agent Orange (with direct start) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c A1 |
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Arc Of A Diver T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Beach Foreplay S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Booted from the Galley T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Catch the Wave S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Cheap Thrills T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Clip Tide S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cream of Belay T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Draggin' Book T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Endless Edge T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Finding Guinness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Finding Nemo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Free Fall T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Jaws T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jimmy Dean T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Land Shark T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Layback 'n Cruz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lost in the Shower S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Ma'adim T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Muscle Shoals S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Naranja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Phillipino Fighting Fish T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Prime Rib of RURP T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rapture of the Steep T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Red Tide S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Reef Stricken S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Salty Dogs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Scimitar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Scuffle and Dust Cough T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Shanadoo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Shanashee T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Stop Making Sense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Swept Away T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Tide Me Over T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Trend Generally Upwards S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Unfathomable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Visceral Pull T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Warm and Free T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Waugh Direct T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Where Eaglets Dare T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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World-class Choss T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | ABt, Mike Broad, Jon Reeves, Jared Guglielmo, '19 |
| Page Views: | 690 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Bennett on Sep 22, 2019 |
| Admins: | adrian montano, Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman |
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Description
This line crests the beautiful headwall of bulges capping Neptune that are visible on the gully approach. You'll encounter technical stemming and overhanging face on some interesting features, with just a bit of kibble here and there. Offering a subjectively more enjoyable alternative to finishing on Ma’adim or Fire Dancer’s final pitches, this route deposits you at the top of the main Neptune wall; it can also be rapped into from the top with a bit of shenanigans.
Traverse left on 3rd-class terrain off the Ma'adim ledge and plug in a bomber 0.75 to protect the moves to the first bolt; back-clean the 0.75. Stem up the varied corner, plug in a 0.5 in a good slot between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and put on yer bear-face to do battle with the "world-class choss mass" block above (don't worry, it's been jumped on at all angles with a 3' prybar and would not budge an iota). Be sure to clip the 4th bolt with a shoulder-length sling before traversing low and left below the 5th and 6th bolts to a good stance. From here on out get ready to crank all the way to the top, and don't be afraid to wander from the bolt line a bit here and there. Be mindful of sharp edges when bringing your follower up.
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