Type: Trad, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: ABt, Mike Broad, Jon Reeves, Jared Guglielmo, '19
Page Views: 690 total · 17/month
Shared By: Andy Bennett on Sep 22, 2019
Admins: adrian montano, Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman

You & This Route

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This line crests the beautiful headwall of bulges capping Neptune that are visible on the gully approach. You'll encounter technical stemming and overhanging face on some interesting features, with just a bit of kibble here and there. Offering a subjectively more enjoyable alternative to finishing on Ma’adim or Fire Dancer’s final pitches, this route deposits you at the top of the main Neptune wall; it can also be rapped into from the top with a bit of shenanigans.

Traverse left on 3rd-class terrain off the Ma'adim ledge and plug in a bomber 0.75 to protect the moves to the first bolt; back-clean the 0.75. Stem up the varied corner, plug in a 0.5 in a good slot between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and put on yer bear-face to do battle with the "world-class choss mass" block above (don't worry, it's been jumped on at all angles with a 3' prybar and would not budge an iota). Be sure to clip the 4th bolt with a shoulder-length sling before traversing low and left below the 5th and 6th bolts to a good stance. From here on out get ready to crank all the way to the top, and don't be afraid to wander from the bolt line a bit here and there. Be mindful of sharp edges when bringing your follower up.


Starts off the cozy ledge at the top of Ma'adim's second pitch at a bomber 3-bolt anchor


11 draws, 1 sling draw, single 0.75 and 0.5 camalot, 2-bolt anchor