Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: ABt, Mike Broad, Jon Reeves, Jared Guglielmo, '19
Page Views: 225 total · 36/month
Shared By: Andy Bennett on Sep 22, 2019
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This line climbs the beautiful headwall of bulges capping Neptune that's visible on the approach down the gully. You'll encounter technical stemming and overhanging face on some interesting features, with just a bit of kibble here and there. Offering a subjectively more enjoyable alternative to finishing on Ma’adim’s or Fire Dancer’s final pitches, this route deposits you at the top of the main Neptune wall; it can also be rapped into from the top with a bit of shenanigans.

Traverse left on 3rd-class terrain off the Ma'adim ledge and plug in a bomber 0.75 to protect the moves to the first bolt; back-clean the 0.75. Stem up the varied corner, plug in a 0.5 in a good slot between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and put on yer bear-face to do battle with the "world-class choss mass" block above (don't worry, it's been jumped on at all angles with a 3' prybar and would not budge an iota). Be sure to clip the 4th bolt with a shoulder-length sling before traversing low and left below the 5th and 6th bolts (cruxy) to a good stance. From here on out get ready to crank up the juice all the way to the top, and don't be afraid to wander from the bolt line a bit here and there. Stay straightish at the last bolt and arc right onto easier terrain until you can see the anchor to your left.

Location

Starts off the cozy ledge at the top of Ma'adim's second pitch at a bomber 2-bolt anchor

Protection

11 draws, 1 sling draw, single 0.75 and 0.5 camalot, 2-bolt anchor

Photos