Type: Trad, 115 ft, Grade II
FA: Andy Bennett, Luis Cisneros, Vince Bates
Page Views: 1,364 total · 30/month
Shared By: Andy Bennett on Jul 20, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

!!! A 70M ROPE IS REQUIRED TO LOWER FROM THIS ROUTE !!!
Three unique, engaging, and increasingly difficult cruxes crown the route, with outrageous positioning and exposure. A bit of good ole “Reef spice” will keep you on your toes.

Tie a knot in the end of your rope. Start up juggy, overhanging terrain directly above the “party ledge”, just left of Ma’adim, climbing past four bolts. Pull the bulge and establish yourself in the corner. Plug in a few finger size pieces to protect the moves to the next bolt. Sequential laybacking and stemming will get you into position for your next challenge. Launch yourself into the Galley. Fight hard for your dinner. Ball-nuts and/or microcams through finger-size will get you a place at the table. Shake out and clip a bolt, pull the roof on the left, and establish in the next corner. At this point poorer rock may give you pause, but rest assured that it has been well-tested. Above, you may choose to bail out right onto Ma’adim’s “escape pitch” corner (burly 5.9, bring extra larger hand-sized gear), or finish on the Galley’s final crux arete. If you’re really tall and/or long, you may be able to clip the Galley’s final bolts from the edge of the corner, avoiding some of the crux. But you came for a challenge, right? Stay left and experience the full value finish. Decipher cryptic edges and fins to unlock a cool finish with a finger slot and bomber thank-god hand jam horizontal. Plug in a piece and clip the chains. You’ve ridden the Galley.

!!! A 70M ROPE IS REQUIRED TO LOWER FROM THIS ROUTE !!!

Location

Just left of Ma'adim, just right of Cheap Shot. Starts of the "Party Ledge"

Protection

70M ROPE; 9 bolts; doubles 0.2-0.5; one #2 camalot; microcams, and/or Ballnuts and stoppers if you like; and a few sling draws. Bring a few large hand-sized pieces if you'd like to bail out right at the finish to Ma'adim's Escape Pitch (you'll need pay attention to where you traverse left to lower off)

Photos