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Routes in Neptune

Agent Orange (with direct start) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A1
Arc Of A Diver T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beach Foreplay S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Booted from the Galley T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Catch the Wave S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip Tide S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cream of Belay T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Endless Edge T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Finding Guinness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finding Nemo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Fall T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jaws T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jimmy Dean T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Land Shark T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Layback 'n Cruz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ma'adim T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Muscle Shoals S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Naranja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Orange, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Phillipino Fighting Fish T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prime Rib of RURP T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rapture of the Steep T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Red Tide S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reef Stricken S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Salty Dogs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scimitar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scuffle and Dust Cough T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Shanadoo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Shanashee T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Stop Making Sense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Swept Away T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tide Me Over T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trend Generally Upwards S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unfathomable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Visceral Pull T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Warm and Free T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Where Eaglets Dare T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 115 ft, Grade II
FA: Andy Bennett, Luis Cisneros, Vince Bates
Page Views: 659 total, 39/month
Shared By: Andy Bennett on Jul 20, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

!!! A 70M ROPE IS REQUIRED TO LOWER FROM THIS ROUTE !!!

After exploring many of the intimidating, high quality routes on Neptune, my eye was inescapably drawn to the last unclimbed dihedral systems on the North Face…but how to access them? And what of the massive daggers of loose granite guarding the upper reaches, threatening to guillotine any would-be suitors?

It is exhausting to recall how much work went into producing this route, but in the end it turned out to be well worth the effort. Although slightly chossy and a bit contrived at the finish, this one should prove to be another worthy addition to this fantastic cliff. Three unique, engaging, and increasingly difficult cruxes crown the route, with outrageous positioning and exposure, and that excellent feature climbing that only the Reef can provide. A bit of good ole “Reef spice” will keep you on your toes.

Tie a knot in the end of your rope. Start up juggy, overhanging terrain directly above the “party ledge”, just left of Ma’adim, climbing past four bolts. Pull the bulge and establish yourself in the corner. Plug in a few finger size pieces to protect the moves to the next bolt. Sequential laybacking and stemming will get you into position for your next challenge. Launch yourself into the Galley. Fight hard for your dinner. Ball-nuts and/or microcams through finger-size will get you a place at the table. Shake out and clip a bolt, pull the roof on the left, and establish in the next corner. At this point poorer rock may give you pause, but rest assured that it has been well-tested. Above, you may choose to bail out right onto Ma’adim’s “escape pitch” corner (burly 5.9, bring extra larger hand-sized gear), or finish on the Galley’s final crux arete. If you’re really tall and/or long, you may be able to clip the Galley’s final bolts from the edge of the corner, avoiding some of the crux. But you came for a challenge, right? Stay left and experience the full value finish. Decipher cryptic edges and fins to unlock a cool finish with a finger slot and bomber thank-god hand jam horizontal. Plug in a piece and clip the chains. You’ve ridden the Galley.

!!! A 70M ROPE IS REQUIRED TO LOWER FROM THIS ROUTE !!!

Location

Just left of Ma'adim, just right of Cheap Shot. Starts of the "Party Ledge"

Protection

70M ROPE; 9 bolts; doubles 0.2-0.5; one #2 camalot; microcams, and/or Ballnuts and stoppers if you like; and a few sling draws. Bring a few large hand-sized pieces if you'd like to bail out right at the finish to Ma'adim's Escape Pitch (you'll need pay attention to where you traverse left to lower off)

Photos

Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.12c
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.12c
Booted from the Galley is a great line, and without a question a worthy contribution to one of Southern AZ's best crags. Huge thanks to Andy and friends for polishing this gem!

As Andy mentioned, the line can be done on mostly gear, skipping the first three (perhaps also fourth?) bolts as well as the bolt at the end of the crux dihedral. However, for the first three bolts, care will need to be taken to find the best placements. I personally tested the gear in the crux dihedral with a thirty footer, so that at least seems to be undeniably bomber.

The climb is fairly burly, and if you don't find the proper beta (especially on the second and third cruxes) is going to feel stupid hard for .12. If you do find the correct beta, it still might feel hard for .12 ;).

One final note. Be attentive to the gear you place after the fourth bolt, in the beginning of the groove/dihedral. The little pockets are quite polished, and I pulled a few seemingly solid cams out just by tugging on them. Find a constriction and/or build a small nest. It's not far to the next bolt, but if you blew it without gear it would be a potentially ugly fall. Jul 21, 2016
Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
 
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
 
This route has been led on mainly gear by Austin Sobotka, who skipped the first three bolts and the final bolt in the Galley. After lengthy discussions about rock quality and safety, we chose not to remove these bolts. Although the rock at the bottom of the climb is decently-fissured, it is quite hollow and flexible and is marked by committing climbing. Choose your own adventure. Jul 20, 2016