Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ray Ringle, Chip Chace, 1980. Direct finish: Jim Waugh, 1989
Page Views: 1,776 total · 13/month
Shared By: Clay Mansfield on Jul 1, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A great line from the Ringle/Chace summer of 1980. The general consensus (from both Steiger's and EFR's guide) has been that the first two pitches are great (they are), and that the last pitch is not worth doing. The description here is mainly for the 2 money pitches.

P1. Thoughtful moves lead up to an obvious layback flake. This gives you a nice little pump before tackling the real estate above epic arch, which is steep with great sequencing.

2 bolt belay, with hardware to lower/rap off.

P2. Stuff some bombproof gear in a couple handcrack pods and fire the crux of pitch 2. The reward is a leftward traverse on good holds (If you head straight up after the crux, you will heading up Jim Waugh's direct finish, which goes at 5.12). Keep traversing up and left along a beautiful flake system. At the end of the traverse, it's decision time: head up into the obvious dihedral for the belay before the 3rd pitch, or continue straight left and down a bit along an exciting hand traverse that pass the Catch the Wave anchors, and end at Ma'adim's 2 bolt-belay. We did the latter.

From the top of Ma'adim's 2nd pitch, you need two ropes to get to the ground (I think), or 2 raps with 1 70m. If you do the 70 m method, there is some swinging required to snag the 1st pitch anchors.

Location

Just after the crouton filter on Neptune, left side of the big, obvious Epic Arch.

Protection

Standard rack: stoppers (incl. small) and probably doubles of cams in the fingers to hand sizes, one #3 BD or equivalent.

Photos