Avg: 2.8 from 10 votes
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Ray Ringle, Chip Chace, 1980. Direct finish: Jim Waugh, 1989|
|Page Views:||2,405 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Clay Mansfield on Jul 1, 2008|
|Admins:||adrian montano, Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman|
P1. Thoughtful moves lead up to an obvious layback flake. This gives you a nice little pump before tackling the real estate above epic arch, which is steep with great sequencing.
2 bolt belay, with hardware to lower/rap off.
P2. Stuff some bombproof gear in a couple handcrack pods and fire the crux of pitch 2. The reward is a leftward traverse on good holds (If you head straight up after the crux, you will heading up Jim Waugh's direct finish, which goes at 5.12). Keep traversing up and left along a beautiful flake system. At the end of the traverse, it's decision time: head up into the obvious dihedral for the belay before the 3rd pitch, or continue straight left and down a bit along an exciting hand traverse that pass the Catch the Wave anchors, and end at Ma'adim's 2 bolt-belay. We did the latter.
From the top of Ma'adim's 2nd pitch, you need two ropes to get to the ground (I think), or 2 raps with 1 70m. If you do the 70 m method, there is some swinging required to snag the 1st pitch anchors.