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Routes in Neptune

Agent Orange (with direct start) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A1
Arc Of A Diver T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beach Foreplay S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Booted from the Galley T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Catch the Wave S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip Tide S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cream of Belay T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Endless Edge T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Finding Guinness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finding Nemo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Fall T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jaws T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jimmy Dean T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Land Shark T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Layback 'n Cruz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ma'adim T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Muscle Shoals S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Naranja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Orange, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Phillipino Fighting Fish T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prime Rib of RURP T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rapture of the Steep T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Red Tide S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reef Stricken S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Salty Dogs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scimitar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scuffle and Dust Cough T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Shanadoo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Shanashee T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Stop Making Sense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Swept Away T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tide Me Over T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trend Generally Upwards S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unfathomable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Visceral Pull T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Warm and Free T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Where Eaglets Dare T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ray Ringle, Chip Chace, 1980. Direct finish: Jim Waugh, 1989
Page Views: 1,380 total, 12/month
Shared By: Clay Mansfield on Jul 1, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

A great line from the Ringle/Chace summer of 1980. The general consensus (from both Steiger's and EFR's guide) has been that the first two pitches are great (they are), and that the last pitch is not worth doing. The description here is mainly for the 2 money pitches.

P1. Thoughtful moves lead up to an obvious layback flake. This gives you a nice little pump before tackling the real estate above epic arch, which is steep with great sequencing.

2 bolt belay, with hardware to lower/rap off.

P2. Stuff some bombproof gear in a couple handcrack pods and fire the crux of pitch 2. The reward is a leftward traverse on good holds (If you head straight up after the crux, you will heading up Jim Waugh's direct finish, which goes at 5.12). Keep traversing up and left along a beautiful flake system. At the end of the traverse, it's decision time: head up into the obvious dihedral for the belay before the 3rd pitch, or continue straight left and down a bit along an exciting hand traverse that pass the Catch the Wave anchors, and end at Ma'adim's 2 bolt-belay. We did the latter.

From the top of Ma'adim's 2nd pitch, you need two ropes to get to the ground (I think), or 2 raps with 1 70m. If you do the 70 m method, there is some swinging required to snag the 1st pitch anchors.

Location

Just after the crouton filter on Neptune, left side of the big, obvious Epic Arch.

Protection

Standard rack: stoppers (incl. small) and probably doubles of cams in the fingers to hand sizes, one #3 BD or equivalent.

Photos

Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
Glad you are OK! Jun 22, 2015
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
Eric,
You're right, it wasn't a great idea to jug the rope. But all's well that ends well, I suppose. Jun 21, 2015
Never a good idea to jug a stuck rope. It is easy to walk around to the top and rap in. If you had another rope to climb Swept... you could have led Rapture again. Glad you didn't hit anything. Jun 19, 2015
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
Did the first pitch a few days ago after getting a rope stuck on Rapture. I found the direction of travel to be non-obvious past the layback flake. After some deliberation I decided not to head left (the proper way), because of the greenery growing out of the feature, and instead went right to a short handcrack that goes directly through the roof. Unfortunately this crack disappears into a lichen-covered face. Fell off, hung for a bit, then went left. The climbing out left is really cool, but the initial crack could definitely use some pruning/scrubbing (there's a handjam pod that felt like mostly dirt.
Fun story about the stuck rope: after finishing the first pitch of Swept Away I tensioned over to the stuck line and started jugging up it to untie the knot that we thought we left in. I found out about ten feet below the roof on Rapture that we hadn't actually left a knot. I fell somewhere around 30-40 feet and launched into a huge pendulum, all the way over the the first pitch of Arc of a Diver! A bit scary as an unexpected event, but my God was it fun! Jun 19, 2015
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
Got on the first two pitches today and they were a blast. It is possible to rap after the terrific first pitch. Highly recommended.

The hardware looks like it is in good condition on pitch 1 - the bolt has an unusual-looking Mammut hanger but is in good shape. Extra 1"-2" cams were helpful on this pitch. Jun 15, 2013