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Routes in Neptune

Agent Orange (with direct start) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A1
Arc Of A Diver T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beach Foreplay S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Booted from the Galley T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Catch the Wave S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip Tide S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cream of Belay T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Endless Edge T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Finding Guinness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finding Nemo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Fall T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jaws T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jimmy Dean T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Land Shark T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Layback 'n Cruz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ma'adim T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Muscle Shoals S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Naranja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Orange, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Phillipino Fighting Fish T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prime Rib of RURP T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rapture of the Steep T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Red Tide S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reef Stricken S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Salty Dogs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scimitar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scuffle and Dust Cough T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Shanadoo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Shanashee T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Stop Making Sense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Swept Away T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tide Me Over T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trend Generally Upwards S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unfathomable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Visceral Pull T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Warm and Free T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Where Eaglets Dare T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Baker, Rich Thompson
Page Views: 3,272 total, 28/month
Shared By: Chris Prewitt on Jun 29, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

While this route only checks in at a mere 5.8, you'll find it to be a worthy outing if you enjoy clean wide cracks. The grade doesn't reflect the nature of the climbing - it feels BIG in every sense of the word.

Belay on a good ledge at the base of the offwidth which is about 70' off the deck (gear: chockstone, two .75's which may be tricky to find, and/or #5 Friend.) There are two ways to get to this point: either climb directly up (5.11), or traverse in from the left (5.7+).

The first 1/3 is typical OW with some good feet, then the feet go away. Get in and grunt or LB the nice edge gunning for a melon-sized chockstone 10' up. Past the chockstone the crack is wide enough to get inside, eventually becoming a "comfortable" squeeze chimney. You'll now be inside the chim for the remainder. There is pro in there, too. Top out and belay from boulders and bushes on the col. To walk/climb off go to climbers' left, stepping down right and around to gain a short low angle handcrack then up slab to the ridgetop and a small plaque. Hopefully you left your packs on the main ridge that you can now see.

Location

On the north side of Neptune, locate the obvious offwidth in a right facing corner. Traverse in high from the left across a blocky/bushy ledge, then onto the face and around the corner to gain the dihedral. Top out and walk off up left.

Protection

Bring out the big guns. Cams from .5"-6" Doubles from 3"-5" might come in real handy, though it's mostly squeeze chimney.

Photos

A #6 will take all the fear out of this route. No need to have OW technique if you commit to another option. Knee pads make it a lot more fun. Jul 3, 2012
I haven't done this climb yet, but if you are comfortable at the grade, I would recommend the first pitch of Jimmy Dean to get to the belay for Jaws. The crux is down low at a bolt (5.11) and the rest is pretty well protected, be it with bolts or gear. It's fun climbing and the alternate 5.7 traverse looks sketchy and pretty fuzzy. Jun 5, 2012
Giulio Del Piccolo
El Jebel, CO
Giulio Del Piccolo   El Jebel, CO
perhaps i outa go Mar 19, 2010
To start, I'll tell ya it's the best 5.8 that I've done on that mountain. Really interesting climbing, getting you into places very few climber, let alone people ever see. It is especially exciting to struggle half way through the chimney, and look up the crack to see a sliver of sky. Extremely fun climbing. Jun 30, 2008