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Jaws
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.2 from 24
votes
Routes in Neptune
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Agent Orange (with direct start) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c A1 |
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Arc Of A Diver T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Beach Foreplay S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Booted from the Galley T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Catch the Wave S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Cheap Thrills T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Clip Tide S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cream of Belay T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Draggin' Book T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Endless Edge T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Finding Guinness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Finding Nemo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Free Fall T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Jaws T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jimmy Dean T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Land Shark T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Layback 'n Cruz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lost in the Shower S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Ma'adim T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Maiden Voyage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Muscle Shoals S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Naranja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Phillipino Fighting Fish T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Prime Rib of RURP T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rapture of the Steep T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Red Tide S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Reef Stricken S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Salty Dogs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Scimitar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Scuffle and Dust Cough T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Shanadoo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Shanashee T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Stop Making Sense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Swept Away T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Throbblefoot Spectra T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Tide Me Over T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Trend Generally Upwards S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Unfathomable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Visceral Pull T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Warm and Free T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Waugh Direct T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Ways T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Where Eaglets Dare T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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World-class Choss T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 32.46039, -110.78419 |
| FA: | Dave Baker, Rich Thompson 1975 |
| Page Views: | 5,209 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Prewitt on Jun 29, 2008 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
While this route only checks in at a mere 5.8, you'll find it to be a worthy outing if you enjoy clean wide cracks. The grade doesn't reflect the nature of the climbing - it feels BIG in every sense of the word.
Belay on a good ledge at the base of the offwidth which is about 70' off the deck (gear: chockstone, two .75's which may be tricky to find, and/or #5 Friend.) There are two ways to get to this point: either climb directly up (5.11), or traverse in from the left (5.7+).
The first 1/3 is typical OW with some good feet, then the feet go away. Get in and grunt or LB the nice edge gunning for a melon-sized chockstone 10' up. Past the chockstone the crack is wide enough to get inside, eventually becoming a "comfortable" squeeze chimney. You'll now be inside the chim for the remainder. There is pro in there, too. Top out and belay from boulders and bushes on the col. To walk/climb off go to climbers' left, stepping down right and around to gain a short low angle handcrack then up slab to the ridgetop and a small plaque. Hopefully you left your packs on the main ridge that you can now see.
7 Comments