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Cream of Belay
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 3 from 27 votes
Type: | Trad, 175 ft (53 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | JS, RR, SB, DG, '76 |
Page Views: | 1,841 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Clay Mansfield on Jun 8, 2013 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Cream of Belay is yet another fine climb on one of Mt Lemmon's most stacked cliffs.
The first pitch is a killer "C"-shaped arch,. Starts with a long leftward traverse into a corner, then up and right on laybacks then a traverse right toward the belay, all the while jamming, laybacking and underclinging the flake/crack. 2 bolt belay.
The 2nd pitch, which gave the route it's name ( climbaz.com/sabino_canyon/p… ), involves some gear in a small dihedral, then some committing moves up to an updated bolt (thanks to the ASCA). Climbing from here backs off and you can finish up in the vicinity of the huge detached boulder/tree (it's solid) or up higher.
The climbing may not warrant a full on "R" rating anymore, with our fancy-pants new gear, but I'll reserve that judgement for now, as I followed the 2nd pitch.
The first pitch is a killer "C"-shaped arch,. Starts with a long leftward traverse into a corner, then up and right on laybacks then a traverse right toward the belay, all the while jamming, laybacking and underclinging the flake/crack. 2 bolt belay.
The 2nd pitch, which gave the route it's name ( climbaz.com/sabino_canyon/p… ), involves some gear in a small dihedral, then some committing moves up to an updated bolt (thanks to the ASCA). Climbing from here backs off and you can finish up in the vicinity of the huge detached boulder/tree (it's solid) or up higher.
The climbing may not warrant a full on "R" rating anymore, with our fancy-pants new gear, but I'll reserve that judgement for now, as I followed the 2nd pitch.
6 Comments