Type: Trad, 175 ft, 2 pitches
FA: JS, RR, SB, DG, '76
Page Views: 1,190 total · 14/month
Shared By: Clay Mansfield on Jun 8, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Cream of Belay is yet another fine climb on one of Mt Lemmon's most stacked cliffs.

The first pitch is a killer "C"-shaped arch,. Starts with a long leftward traverse into a corner, then up and right on laybacks then a traverse right toward the belay, all the while jamming, laybacking and underclinging the flake/crack. 2 bolt belay.

The 2nd pitch, which gave the route it's name ( climbaz.com/sabino_canyon/p… ), involves some gear in a small dihedral, then some committing moves up to an updated bolt (thanks to the ASCA). Climbing from here backs off and you can finish up in the vicinity of the huge detached boulder/tree (it's solid) or up higher.

The climbing may not warrant a full on "R" rating anymore, with our fancy-pants new gear, but I'll reserve that judgement for now, as I followed the 2nd pitch.

Location

On Neptune's upper face, right of Rapture of the Steep. Large, obvious arch. Starts more right than you probably think.

Protection

stoppers, including brassies if you got em, doubles up to thin hands with probably be plenty

Photos