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Routes in Neptune

Agent Orange (with direct start) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A1
Arc Of A Diver T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beach Foreplay S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Booted from the Galley T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Catch the Wave S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip Tide S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cream of Belay T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Endless Edge T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Finding Guinness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finding Nemo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Fall T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jaws T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jimmy Dean T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Land Shark T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Layback 'n Cruz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ma'adim T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Muscle Shoals S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Naranja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Orange, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Phillipino Fighting Fish T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prime Rib of RURP T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rapture of the Steep T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Red Tide S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reef Stricken S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Salty Dogs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scimitar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scuffle and Dust Cough T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Shanadoo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Shanashee T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Stop Making Sense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Swept Away T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tide Me Over T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trend Generally Upwards S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unfathomable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Visceral Pull T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Warm and Free T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Where Eaglets Dare T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 175 ft, 2 pitches
FA: JS, RR, SB, DG, '76
Page Views: 833 total, 15/month
Shared By: Clay Mansfield on Jun 8, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Cream of Belay is yet another fine climb on one of Mt Lemmon's most stacked cliffs.

The first pitch is a killer "C"-shaped arch,. Starts with a long leftward traverse into a corner, then up and right on laybacks then a traverse right toward the belay, all the while jamming, laybacking and underclinging the flake/crack. 2 bolt belay.

The 2nd pitch, which gave the route it's name ( climbaz.com/sabino_canyon/p… ), involves some gear in a small dihedral, then some committing moves up to an updated bolt (thanks to the ASCA). Climbing from here backs off and you can finish up in the vicinity of the huge detached boulder/tree (it's solid) or up higher.

The climbing may not warrant a full on "R" rating anymore, with our fancy-pants new gear, but I'll reserve that judgement for now, as I followed the 2nd pitch.

Location

On Neptune's upper face, right of Rapture of the Steep. Large, obvious arch. Starts more right than you probably think.

Protection

stoppers, including brassies if you got em, doubles up to thin hands with probably be plenty

Photos

The route is two pitches. Build an anchor and finish it or put in a set of bolts up and left. I could do that if I get there this year. There used to be a poorly located anchor that allowed you to lower off after the first pitch but that got removed as is allowed people to avoid the finish of Reef Stricken. Jul 3, 2017
Justin Headley   Tucson
I would have been more comfortable if I had brought triples of .4-1, but made do with some backcleaning and large nuts. Be careful to not get the rope stuck in the roof crack. Is the hanging anchor that's currently made from webbing, 1 bolt, and 1 nut really the anchor? Or is the intention to go up another 15 feet to the anchor of Reef Stricken? Jul 2, 2017
It is Reef Stricken which starts left of the start of
cream. Read the description. Jun 9, 2014
Jake Croft
Tucson, Az
Jake Croft   Tucson, Az
Looks like the 2 bolt belay for the first pitch in the picture only has one of its bolts now.

Also, does anyone know anything about the sport route directly to the right of this? (not finding Guinness). Doesn't look like its on MP yet Jun 8, 2014
greg k
 
greg k  
 
although i only did the 1st pitch, i'd put it on par w/ rapture. even w/ considerable rope drag and a thought-provoking start this climb was spectacular! Sep 15, 2013
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.10- PG13
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.10- PG13
This climb is great. Thanks to Clay for replacing the scary 1/4" buttonhead on pitch 2. I'd suggest making sure you have at least one #2 and #3 Camalot. We did not use a #4 on the wide roof crack but it may be useful.

I agree with Clay that with modern climbing gear this climb is probably not R rated, particularly by Reef standards. The second pitch is committing, though. Jun 9, 2013