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Routes in Neptune

Agent Orange (with direct start) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A1
Arc Of A Diver T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beach Foreplay S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Booted from the Galley T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Catch the Wave S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip Tide S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cream of Belay T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Endless Edge T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Finding Guinness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finding Nemo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Fall T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jaws T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jimmy Dean T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Land Shark T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Layback 'n Cruz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ma'adim T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Muscle Shoals S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Naranja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Orange, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Phillipino Fighting Fish T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prime Rib of RURP T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rapture of the Steep T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Red Tide S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reef Stricken S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Salty Dogs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scimitar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scuffle and Dust Cough T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Shanadoo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Shanashee T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Stop Making Sense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Swept Away T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tide Me Over T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trend Generally Upwards S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unfathomable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Visceral Pull T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Warm and Free T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Where Eaglets Dare T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike McEwan, Steve Grossman, Dave Baker, Rich Thompson
Page Views: 391 total, 3/month
Shared By: Steve Pulver on Jun 30, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

Like with all routes I've done at the Reef, I wouldn't have objected to another bolt. The person that goes up there with the drill can put it 10 feet above the last bolt on the final pitch.

We tried to do the direct start, then we (meaning I) bailed, out to the muddy dihedral on the left. This is not recommended.

Location

We descended the main gully, then bushwhacked around to the base. You'll see a large ledge that makes an easy traverse to the start.

Protection

I don't remember using any nuts on this. Probably doubles of .3 up to #3 Camalot.
Dj telle
Tucson, Arizona
  5.10 R
Dj telle   Tucson, Arizona
  5.10 R
last pitch had some .10 slab moves and some .7/.8R to the top. May 6, 2017
Direct is like 11+ with some very tricky slab moves. Jun 23, 2015
Ethan S.  
 
Just out of curiosity what does the direct variation you mentioned go at? The one above the big ledge on top of pitch 2 (pitch one without the direct start). Jun 21, 2015
A number of things about this route.

The Direct start is really worth doing and with micro cams it protects pretty well.

There is now a Direct Finish that goes straight up at the beginning of the big ledge at the top of the main corner. Belay at the tree for the direct finish. It is a lot harder and less run out.

If you do the original route the pitch above the ledge starts way over to the left and starts up a nice corner but steps left into a vertical crack that leads to a big block about 15 feet above the start of the corner. It then works up and right eventually passing just two bolts. Aug 4, 2012
Scott M. McNamara
Tucson, Arizona
Scott M. McNamara   Tucson, Arizona
Thanks for replacing those bolts!

Scott Mc Jul 2, 2012
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
Both of the bolts on the second pitch have been replaced with stainless steel sleeve bolts provided by the ASCA. Many thanks to the ASCA for providing this hardware!


Jul 1, 2012
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
  5.10- PG13
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
  5.10- PG13
Maybe I shouldn't give this away (but if you're all the way down here on the comments then you're looking for beta--or just bored), but depending on which way you go, there is a good 0 tcu or C3 that somewhat mitigates that final runout. Still probably best not to fall. This piece is also key on the direct start.

Although this is a "mellow" route by Reef standards, I find that all but the second pitch of the "Warm and Steep" link-up have some degree of spice, with the last pitch (2nd of Rapture) being the scariest for me. The spice is not too bad but just right to make it an even more memorable route.

[edit] As I side note, I feel like the description of the route here is lacking and should be amended to reflect that the logical way to do this route (and the way it's usually done) is to link with Rapture. Jun 5, 2012
The last run out is definitely dangerous. Do not fall off. The pro is between your ears. This is what makes old school, old school. Jun 5, 2012
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
andy - good job on the ascent!

ditto everyone that said not to add more bolts. Aug 6, 2009
Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
It's safe. Doesn't need any more bolts, just focus. Link it up with Rapture for an excellent day! Aug 2, 2009
Way to go Luke for not getting involved in 1,2, or 3. Jul 7, 2008
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
 
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
 
Was out there today for some holiday climbing that does not involve:

1. Falling onto a pad.

2. Following a line of very closely placed steel, or

3. Grabbing artificial holds.

Great Climb!! No need for added bolts. Jul 4, 2008
Hey Braxton, I will study that until I have it memorized. I did not see POS. I see that a lot when people describe routes I have done. I assume it means they had a positive experience. Jul 3, 2008
Braxtron
...
Braxtron   ...
I doubt Steve was serious about adding bolts.

Hey Eric, here's a great site for you: netlingo.com/top50text.cfm. It has all the hip lingo that us young people use.

I disagree with #48, though. It's supposed to be White Trash Female. Jul 3, 2008
I wondered what those things were. Is that a sign that I never text message anyone. Hell, I just figured out what LOL and IMHO mean. TFAP was pretty dicey back then. Jul 2, 2008
You know, I DID put a smiley next to my comment about Shanashee!

That was the season I was climbing with Tom Hilbert - he would lead absolutely anything. Did Two for a Peso before the chicken bolts got added there. Not that I led it though ... Jul 1, 2008
Adding bolts to W&F is the stupidest thing I have heard in a week and I have been reading the Forum Sport Climbing History. Adding bolts to Shanashee is more so. If you don't want to take step it up set up a TR and be amazed at what can be done with good slab technique and a strong head. If you don't have the head don't lead it but don't even think about bolting classics down to your level. This is pathetic. If you really want to bolt things I would be happy to have your help. There are tons of lines just waiting to be bolted so you can get up them.

Sincerely, Jbaks shorter, meaner twin brother. Jul 1, 2008
I can't imagine where W&F would need another bolt. It protects just fine.

If you want to add bolts go to Shanashee :-) :-) :-) Jul 1, 2008
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Please don't even talk about adding bolts to established classics. Warm and Free is considered a mellow, low-stress route by Reef standards. Jul 1, 2008