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Routes in Neptune

Agent Orange (with direct start) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A1
Arc Of A Diver T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beach Foreplay S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Booted from the Galley T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Catch the Wave S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip Tide S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cream of Belay T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Endless Edge T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Finding Guinness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finding Nemo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Fall T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jaws T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jimmy Dean T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Land Shark T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Layback 'n Cruz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ma'adim T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Muscle Shoals S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Naranja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Orange, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Phillipino Fighting Fish T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prime Rib of RURP T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rapture of the Steep T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Red Tide S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reef Stricken S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Salty Dogs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scimitar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scuffle and Dust Cough T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Shanadoo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Shanashee T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Stop Making Sense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Swept Away T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tide Me Over T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trend Generally Upwards S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unfathomable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Visceral Pull T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Warm and Free T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Where Eaglets Dare T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: John Steiger, Ray Ringle, 1986
Page Views: 111 total, 1/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Aug 17, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

EFR’'s 2000 guide (Squeezing II) says of this route: "Forget good sense if you try leading this super hard slab with a long 5.10+ runout at the end." I don't remember much about the FA, but I thought I'd post this up to try to stimulate someone to climb it, so they can tell me what I've forgotten. I do recall numerous tries (always lowering to a rest, of course; these were the ground-up, no dogging years)-- with classic time-release footholds and making do with barely visible rugosities. EFR rates this as 5.12 R, but I'm pretty sure we called it 5.12a, and we didn't think of it as particularly unsafe, but I'll give it 12b here just to stroke my aging ego. Free Wasatch Devastators (a really good double bock) to anyone who has led it and meets me in SLC (offer expires 2017). Oh ya, the description: Climb the bolt line up the middle of the slab left of the Shanashee and Shanadoo start.

Location

Find the base of Shanashee on the lower west face of Neptune. Walk left out the 3rd class ledge system (which also accesses the original first pitch of Warm and Free).

Protection

Draws and some sort of rack (I don'’t remember). Gear belay.

Photos

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Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Hey John, Dave Merin replaced most of the hardware on this one a few months ago. I think one of the old bolts still needs to be removed; I will clean that up the next time I am at the Reef. Aug 17, 2011