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Routes in Neptune

Agent Orange (with direct start) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A1
Arc Of A Diver T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beach Foreplay S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Booted from the Galley T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Catch the Wave S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip Tide S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cream of Belay T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Endless Edge T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Finding Guinness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finding Nemo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Fall T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jaws T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jimmy Dean T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Land Shark T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Layback 'n Cruz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ma'adim T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Muscle Shoals S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Naranja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Phillipino Fighting Fish T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prime Rib of RURP T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rapture of the Steep T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Red Tide S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reef Stricken S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Salty Dogs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scimitar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scuffle and Dust Cough T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Shanadoo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Shanashee T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Stop Making Sense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Swept Away T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tide Me Over T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trend Generally Upwards S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unfathomable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Visceral Pull T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Warm and Free T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Where Eaglets Dare T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: CC, RR ('80)
Page Views: 421 total · 8/month
Shared By: Andy Bennett on Jul 7, 2014
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Description

Some lichen, choss, and a heady start detract from the quality of this climb. The climbing in the dihedral is pretty dang fun, though. Modern gear softens the sting on this climb, negating the need for the "3 sets of brass nuts and crack-n-ups" mentioned in the guidebook. RPs are still really handy, though.

Tiptoe up and over the pile of precariously-wedged blocks that mark the beginning of this route. (Yes, apparently they're solid). Work your way into the corner, passing the start of the Salty Dogs line. Here, all of your Mount Lemmon zero-error-tolerance gear placing experience will come in real handy. Commit to the corner, gain the slab, and confront your next challenge. A fall while gaining the slab could be fairly bad--make sure you have your belayer's full attention. The main corner eventually meets a jumbled series of cracks and buttresses-here you can set up a belay and bring up your second. One could also continue to the top with a larger rack. Either climb out the low-angle corner to the right, or take on the overhanging buttresses to the top. Walk off

It is also possible to start this climb by starting off of a small ledge to the right of the main ledge (spicy 4th class move). We didn't do this line, but it looks easier and potentially safer.

Location

Start as for Salty Dogs, but continue up the nearly vertical corner. Be mindful of the pile of lodged blocks at the start.

Protection

Doubles of #00-#3 camalots, RPs, stoppers. Offset cams in the thin-to-fat fingers range may also make you feel a lot better. Dust mask and goggles optional (kidding).

Photos

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Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
This line is really not as dirty as it sounds or looks, and it deserves more traffic. It looks like it may have actually been brushed recently...Eric? Jul 7, 2014
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Nice going Andy, this route probably hasn't been done in 20 years or more. Sounds like it might be worth cleaning up. I haven't done anything I can remember although I might have brushed a little after doing Salty Dogs. Jul 9, 2014

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