Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: EFR, Geir Hundal,'12
Page Views: 231 total · 3/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Aug 11, 2012
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

This route can be a direct finish to Warm And Free or the second pitch of the still unrepeated Keelhaul. This climb has one of the coolest moves I have done in recent memory. It involves falling into small corner. Joe Kriedel might be able to reach over to it but neither Geir or I could do it without just leaning over until we fell into it. From there you will find two very sticky rubber trusting sections of slab climbing that are sequential to boot.

Location

At the top of the main dihedral on Warm and Free is a small tree. The route starts from here. Climb out right and up thin crack to bolts.

Protection

Bolts and small cams from 00 to yellow Metolius or Aliens. Double up on the green alien or blue Metolius as you will need one for a horizontal above the 2nd to last bolt.

Photos

Geir www.ToofastTopos.com   Tucson, AZ
 
This climb is terriffic. The opening crux described above is outrageous, and the remaining climbing will keep your attention through three more very difficult slab sections.

Keep a black alien and a green alien (or equivalent) for the top.

A bee stung me during my second attempt. I managed to get the stinger out on stance and then fell. :) Aug 12, 2012