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Routes in Neptune

Agent Orange (with direct start) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A1
Arc Of A Diver T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beach Foreplay S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Booted from the Galley T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Catch the Wave S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip Tide S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cream of Belay T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Endless Edge T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Finding Guinness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finding Nemo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Fall T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jaws T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jimmy Dean T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Land Shark T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Layback 'n Cruz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ma'adim T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Muscle Shoals S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Naranja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Orange, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Phillipino Fighting Fish T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prime Rib of RURP T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rapture of the Steep T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Red Tide S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reef Stricken S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Salty Dogs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scimitar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scuffle and Dust Cough T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Shanadoo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Shanashee T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Stop Making Sense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Swept Away T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tide Me Over T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trend Generally Upwards S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unfathomable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Visceral Pull T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Warm and Free T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Where Eaglets Dare T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Steiger, Rich Thompson, Don Gallagher 1977
Page Views: 4,439 total, 39/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Jul 4, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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Description

Follow the great hands to finger crack to a small roof. There are good jams to be found the whole way, but the only true crack moves are the fingerlocks leading to the roof. Great pro the entire way.
Pull the roof (don't fall here), clip a bolt and continue to the anchors. This is a must do for Mt. Lemmon. This climb would be a classic almost anywhere.

Location

Prominent crack right of Swept Away if you are looking up at the face. You can't miss it.

Protection

Hand and finger sized cams. A few finger sized nuts will serve you well too. Slings to equalize the very offset anchors at the top of the first pitch.

Photos

Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
is the roof the crux of the first pitch? Jul 7, 2015
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.10 PG13
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.10 PG13
That's what was meant Jon, although there is a sneaky placement for a .75" cam that can offer better protection for the roof. :) Aug 8, 2014
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
"Pull the roof (don't fall here)"

does this mean the move isn't very well protected? Aug 7, 2014
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
  5.10 PG13
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
  5.10 PG13
Contrary to some of these comments, I think you are missing out if you don't do the second pitch of this climb. It's steep, exposed, sustained, and spicy, and Neptune is an awesome formation to top out on. I thought it was the headiest pitch of the link-up, and would be really good if it was climbed more and was a little cleaner. Jan 5, 2012
Daniel Cohn  
 
I saw the "nuts in opposition" placement on P2. It is not really required as I could place a micro cam and a #3 camalot in nearly the same spot. Maybe the nuts would work better, I dunno. That old rusted bolt ought to be replaced at some point. P2 is worth doing to avoid the scramble back up the gulley. Sep 27, 2009
Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
Watch out for bats and their excrement in the crux, it gets kinda greasy...

Do the "Warm and Steep" linkup. What a fantastic day! Aug 2, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.10 PG13
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.10 PG13
ditto eric - and also ditto eric on doing warm and free first. May 19, 2009
I think I stay a bit right turning the roof too but it has been a while since I was there. Did you do Warm & Free up to Rapture. If not, do it next time it makes for a lot of good climbing. May 19, 2009
Daniel Cohn  
 
One of the nicest cracks on Lemmon. Great location too. Do most people turn the roof on p1 to the right of the big jug? Thats what I did, but I saw a small fixed nut to the left where the crack turns into a seam. May 19, 2009
scott e. tarrant
Fort Collins
  5.10c PG13
scott e. tarrant   Fort Collins
  5.10c PG13
purely and simply one of the best climbs of my life. Jul 9, 2008
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
 
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
 
This climb has a second pitch that I have never done. It's not much to look at compared to the first. Jul 4, 2008