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Agent Orange (with direct start)
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British A1
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Neptune
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Agent Orange (with direct start) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A1 |
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Arc Of A Diver T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Beach Foreplay S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Booted from the Galley T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Catch the Wave S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Cheap Thrills T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Clip Tide S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cream of Belay T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Endless Edge T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Finding Guinness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Finding Nemo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Free Fall T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Jaws T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jimmy Dean T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Land Shark T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Layback 'n Cruz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ma'adim T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Muscle Shoals S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Naranja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Phillipino Fighting Fish T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Prime Rib of RURP T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rapture of the Steep T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Red Tide S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Reef Stricken S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Salty Dogs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Scimitar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Scuffle and Dust Cough T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Shanadoo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Shanashee T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Stop Making Sense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Swept Away T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Tide Me Over T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Trend Generally Upwards S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unfathomable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Visceral Pull T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Warm and Free T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Where Eaglets Dare T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 250 ft, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Ray Ringle and Herb North, Jr. |
| Page Views: | 966 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Geir on Jul 27, 2012 |
| Admins: | Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland |
Your Star Rating:
Description
Wonderful features, fun climbing, and a pitch great exposure characterize this old route with a new start.
Agent Orange has typically been accessed by first climbing Cheap Thrills (10-), which has a grungy slot for its first pitch that is now occupied by a tree (see beta photo).
Recently Dave Merin, Aleix Serrat-Capdevila, and I established a direct start that heads straight over a large roof to gain the terrific shallow corner on which Agent Orange starts. The description below includes this start.
Pitch 1 (75'): Start just right of Naranja. Boulder up under a small roof, place some gear and pull around it on the right side. Work up to a stance above the roof, protect in a horizontal pocket, and gain the finger crack up and to the right. Climb this to two bolts under a large roof. Aid through the roof (A1) and continue up a stellar shallow corner with a finger crack (11-). Hanging belay at the top of the finger crack.
Pitch 2 (60'): Work up and right into a hand and fist crack (11-). Make some strenuous moves until about 10' below a roof. Traverse directly left (fun 5.10) and enter a V-shaped notch to belay. Pitch 1 & 2 could be combined with some careful use of runners.
Pitch 3 (130'): From the notch move up about 10', place some gear, then make a committing move left on to a face with good holds. From here head straight up the left side of the arete to a bolt. Move to the arete and continue to a ledge with a tree. Continue up the arete another 15' to a second ledge. From here, follow the ramp left 30' and work up to the bolted anchor for Jimmy Dean. A thrilling, exposed, and challenging pitch.
Descent: Two 115' rappels down Jimmy Dean
Agent Orange has typically been accessed by first climbing Cheap Thrills (10-), which has a grungy slot for its first pitch that is now occupied by a tree (see beta photo).
Recently Dave Merin, Aleix Serrat-Capdevila, and I established a direct start that heads straight over a large roof to gain the terrific shallow corner on which Agent Orange starts. The description below includes this start.
Pitch 1 (75'): Start just right of Naranja. Boulder up under a small roof, place some gear and pull around it on the right side. Work up to a stance above the roof, protect in a horizontal pocket, and gain the finger crack up and to the right. Climb this to two bolts under a large roof. Aid through the roof (A1) and continue up a stellar shallow corner with a finger crack (11-). Hanging belay at the top of the finger crack.
Pitch 2 (60'): Work up and right into a hand and fist crack (11-). Make some strenuous moves until about 10' below a roof. Traverse directly left (fun 5.10) and enter a V-shaped notch to belay. Pitch 1 & 2 could be combined with some careful use of runners.
Pitch 3 (130'): From the notch move up about 10', place some gear, then make a committing move left on to a face with good holds. From here head straight up the left side of the arete to a bolt. Move to the arete and continue to a ledge with a tree. Continue up the arete another 15' to a second ledge. From here, follow the ramp left 30' and work up to the bolted anchor for Jimmy Dean. A thrilling, exposed, and challenging pitch.
Descent: Two 115' rappels down Jimmy Dean
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