Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 125 ft|
|Page Views:||1,512 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||Clay Mansfield on Aug 22, 2013|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
Starting in the right of the two left-facing dihedrals, a super aesthetic tree stem followed by an easy but committing move deposits you at a flake. Toss in a piece and put your game face on.
The next 25 feet takes you through the burly, sequential, and improbable-looking crux. This section has hard climbing above both bolts and gear, and involves a leftward traverse that puts you under a roof corner. The corner weakness manifests itself as a beautiful finger crack on the face above. Once the crack peters out, a good rest allows you to contemplate pulling the wild roof. The remaining 40 feet above the roof is much easier (5.7ish) climbing and was taken up to a large ledge in hopes that a 2nd pitch will go up the orange arete.
The anchor is 2 bolts with quicklinks and biners, 70 M rope required, and you probably want to knot the end. It can be cleaned by the climber being lowered, but it takes some effort and would be smoother if a second is belayed up and cleans on the way.