Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: CM,EFR,AB,GH
Page Views: 1,512 total · 19/month
Shared By: Clay Mansfield on Aug 22, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Visceral Pull resides on the North face of Neptune, before you arrive at the Red Wall proper. It is a long pitch that was established from the ground up over several trips to the Reef, thanks to efforts and tutelage from Andy, Geir, and Eric.

Starting in the right of the two left-facing dihedrals, a super aesthetic tree stem followed by an easy but committing move deposits you at a flake. Toss in a piece and put your game face on.

The next 25 feet takes you through the burly, sequential, and improbable-looking crux. This section has hard climbing above both bolts and gear, and involves a leftward traverse that puts you under a roof corner. The corner weakness manifests itself as a beautiful finger crack on the face above. Once the crack peters out, a good rest allows you to contemplate pulling the wild roof. The remaining 40 feet above the roof is much easier (5.7ish) climbing and was taken up to a large ledge in hopes that a 2nd pitch will go up the orange arete.

The anchor is 2 bolts with quicklinks and biners, 70 M rope required, and you probably want to knot the end. It can be cleaned by the climber being lowered, but it takes some effort and would be smoother if a second is belayed up and cleans on the way.

Location

North face of Neptune, right of Kem's Way and left of Jimmy Dean. Look for 2 consecutive left facing small dihedrals, each with 2 bolts. (starts up right one).

Protection

5 bolts, stoppers (incl. little), cams from small to #1 BD, probably doubles from micro to big fingers, handful of long slings.

Photos