Type: Sport, 160 ft (48 m)
GPS: 32.46039, -110.78419
FA: Adrian Montaño, Jack Hereford, Chris Grayson, Mark Mellott - Sep '22
Page Views: 1,197 total · 31/month
Shared By: adrian montaño on Sep 19, 2022
Admins: adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The full 160-foot pitch straight up Neptune’s exposed skyline. 

Enjoy the smooth & comfy holds through the cruxes of Red Tide before questing above the anchor into a long stretch of viscous face climbing that often left teeth marks on my fingertips. Brilliant exposure, consistently sized holds, & bullet rock await. 

It makes sense why Red Tide's anchor is where it is; the character of the route changes quickly after this point.

Similar to Catch the Wave, you’ll follow the path of least resistance off the anchor, setting you up to head into a sustained crux section of technical & relentless face climbing with strenuous footwork through golden granite. This section goes at ~V9, and can be broken down into 3 mini boulders stacked on top of each other, with hard clips in between, and little chance to shake.

The main crux guards a pair of 'twin crimps' in the middle of the hardest climbing, at the only place to pause & clip. Tenuous footwork off of tooth-like holds guards the next bolt, and a few more long pulls to get to a jug.

Once finally at the rest, fun & pumpy moves up a rail/seam to a couple of wild pockets bring you to a cryptic redpoint crux that guards the last bolt & threatens to make you do it all over again. Bite down on these last few high tension moves & you’re rewarded with an airy almost no hands stance below a keep-it-together sequence above your last bolt to gain the jug feature atop the route. 

For those who simply can’t get enough. 

This is likely Mount Lemmon’s hardest route to date. 

Location Suggest change

Extension to Red Tide

Ends at bolted anchor below the traverse on P2 of Swept Away & Fire Dancer

Protection Suggest change

16 spaced bolts

80m does not reach the belay ledge. 

You will be stuck out in space even with your belayer climbing up to the first bolt. 

Lower to Red Tide anchor, rethread & lower from there

Photos

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