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Routes in Neptune

Agent Orange (with direct start) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A1
Arc Of A Diver T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beach Foreplay S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Booted from the Galley T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Catch the Wave S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip Tide S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cream of Belay T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Endless Edge T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Finding Guinness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finding Nemo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Fall T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jaws T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jimmy Dean T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Land Shark T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Layback 'n Cruz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ma'adim T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Muscle Shoals S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Naranja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Phillipino Fighting Fish T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prime Rib of RURP T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rapture of the Steep T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Red Tide S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reef Stricken S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Salty Dogs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scimitar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scuffle and Dust Cough T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Shanadoo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Shanashee T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Stop Making Sense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Swept Away T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tide Me Over T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trend Generally Upwards S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unfathomable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Visceral Pull T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Warm and Free T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Where Eaglets Dare T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Luis Cisneros, Eric Ruljancich, Andy Bennett '16
Page Views: 369 total · 16/month
Shared By: Andy Bennett on Dec 5, 2016
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Description

***70M ROPE REQUIRED to lower from this route***

Tricky "three-dimensional" climbing colors this route throughout...there are some outrageous moves that I've never encountered anywhere. Three or four distinct cruxes with very good rests in between mean that, if you can hold on long enough to figure out the sequences, you might just get the onsight.

Find the line of brown camo-bolts just left of the iridescent green lichen highway. Climb immediately-steep terrain, reaching a shelf that is shared with the vintage climb Cheap Shot. Here you can place an optional #1-#2 Camalot to protect moves to the next bolt. Traverse right to a high clip and get ready to get creative with the corner system. Ingenuity will deposit you on the "King Sofa", where you can get it all back.

As you awake from the Sofa, be sure that you have an attentive belayer: difficult climbing follows, and too much slack in the line might pose a slight ankle-tweaking risk (rock quality necessitated this...) More hard climbing will eventually take you to a large roof at the top of the corner; impressive views can be had from your perch here. At this point you can opt to climb left into the Cheap Shot--High Five hand crack (10+), or move right into the final crux of the route. Be sure to extend the draw on the last bolt under the roof, or you'll be haulin' oxen on your way to the chains!

***70M ROPE REQUIRED to lower from this route***

Location

Between "Cheap Shot" and "Cheap Thrills/Agent Orange" corner...about 20' left of "Booted from the Galley"

Protection

***70M ROPE REQUIRED to lower from this route***

14 quickdraws and one should-length draw; biner anchors

Photos

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Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
  5.12-
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
  5.12-
Two options exist for climbing this route:

1) Climb the new route through the roof to the anchor (all bolts)
2) Climb to the top of the main corner below the roof, then continue left into sinker jams on "Cheap Shot's" second pitch hand crack ("High Five", hands to fingers); this allows one to bypass the dangerous choss bungling on Cheap Shot's first pitch and enjoy the higher-quality climbing on the second pitch. You may want to establish an anchor in the corner below the roof

This route is dedicated to Jim Scott. Jim's contributions to the climbing community in Southern Arizona and beyond were immense. Sadly, this past summer Jim left us far too early. His wit, eternal optimism, and go-for-it attitude were infectious at every crag; he is and will be deeply missed. This route will give you several opportunities for not just a full-body rest, but also the option to turn around completely to take in the stunning grandeur of the Canada del Oro valley spilling out below you. Take a moment to remember the many fine climbs that Jim Scott shared with us to enjoy. Climb it towards sunset for a real treat. Again, a 70M ROPE IS REQUIRED.

-Andy B Dec 5, 2016
This thing is pretty cool. It's sort of like three different climbs all linked together with comfortable rests. The climbing in each stretch will challenge you in its own different way. Have fun!

Thanks to Andy and Luis for envisioning this line and letting me help with developing it.

Rest in Peace Jim. Thanks for all the adventures and climbs. You are missed. Jan 1, 2017
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
  5.12b/c
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
  5.12b/c
This route snakes it's way around an old trad line and the bolting seems odd and I found it annoying on my first go. The first third of the pitch is hard to read and many holds are hard to see, stay close to the bolts. The middle has an odd section where the bolt you climb above is around an arete and behind you. I was told there is a way to avoid this but could not work it out. The rest is pretty fun with a sting at the end. Having ragged on it a bit I will say that my third run, knowing where to go and having the draws hanging was enjoyable. Aug 13, 2018

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