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Routes in Brass Wall

Alternative Facts T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arachnoworld T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Big Horn, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bird Cage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Birdland T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Hole, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brass Balls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bus Stops Here T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bush Pilots T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Chocolate Covered Bacon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cut Away T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Fungus folks T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Go Greyhound T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Heavy Spider Karma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hidden Persuaders, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
LojVegas T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mushroom People T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mystery Mushroom? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
No Laughing Matter T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nowhere Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Stop in Tonopah T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pazookieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Psycho Date T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rawlpindi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ripcord T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Sea of Holes T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Serious Business T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Simpatico T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sky Dive T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Sniveler T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spectrum T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tinkerbellfusse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Topless Twins T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valore T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varnishing Point T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zen and the Art of Web Spinning T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: TBA
Page Views: 710 total, 10/month
Shared By: Jon O'Brien on Nov 14, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Simpatico climbs the opposite side of the buttress formed by varnishing point. it begins in one of two places. 1. at the bottom of the ramp beheath the mini-r.facing corner into roof (easier) 2. below and to the left of said corner in another, short corner (lil' tougher, place a piece and then bring it with you once you've pulled the move)

the route is very good IMO and provides real, well-protected 5.10 climbing for 30 ft. or so and then transitions into lots of 5.7/5.8 R to the anchor via the arete. surf the arete and get in gear when available until you finally turn the corner left and take the face out (airy, no gear) to the top out. as soon as you step around the arete to the black face you can place a green or purple(or both) camalots that are solid.

Location

find "bus stops here" and start immediately left in the nicer looking corner. or find varnishing point and walk towards orange clonus: you will see the mini-r. facing corner into the roof that jogs right very clearly on the right side of the varnishing point buttress.

Protection

single rack to 3'', extra runners for the gear above the roof. (i personally protect the roof by threading a 4 footer through a hueco and then tying it off w/ a 2 footer british style)

bolted anchor.

70 meter BARELY touches the ground on rappel.

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