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Routes in Brass Wall

Alternative Facts T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arachnoworld T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Big Horn, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bird Cage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Birdland T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Hole, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brass Balls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bus Stops Here T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bush Pilots T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Chocolate Covered Bacon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cut Away T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Fungus folks T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Go Greyhound T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Heavy Spider Karma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hidden Persuaders, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
LojVegas T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mushroom People T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mystery Mushroom? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
No Laughing Matter T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nowhere Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Stop in Tonopah T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pazookieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Psycho Date T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rawlpindi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ripcord T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Sea of Holes T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Serious Business T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Simpatico T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sky Dive T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Sniveler T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spectrum T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tinkerbellfusse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Topless Twins T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valore T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varnishing Point T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zen and the Art of Web Spinning T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Paul Crawford 1980
Page Views: 704 total · 4/month
Shared By: Ken Heiser on Dec 24, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Start this climb about 25 feet to the right of "Varnishing Point" at the bottom of several loose flakes standing up against the triangular flake/pillar.Climb up through the loose flakes with good pro if the flakes stay attached to the wall. Clip a bolt at about 40 feet then continue on up another 25 feet or so and stand on top of a flake that is completely detached from the flake/ledges. I am not sure what is keeping this flake attached to the wall. Place excellent gear in a good horizontal, make one move to the right using the horizontal, then fire through a fun crux using holes in the vertical wall. After the crux move up through a large hueco on excellent holds clipping a second bolt above the hueco. After the bolt continue up the outside face of the flake/pillar using cams in huecos, horizontals, and cracks for over 100 feet of fun, exposed, excellent climbing. It is possible after the second bolt to escape from the face around the corner to the right to make the climbing much easier and better protected but I chose to stay out on the face as the climbing is more sustained and better quality there. I placed 11 pieces of protection including the bolts in 150 feet of climbing.

This route would not be considered a classic by most people but I enjoyed it very much because of the very old school trad feel, the vertical very exposed climbing, and the need to really trust that "there really will be holds and gear up there". I only gave it one star despite the excellent climbing on the upper face because of the looseness of the lower section and the lack of distinct line.

Protection

The first 30-40 feet of this climb has good pro that is contingent on the flake the pro is placed in staying attached to the cliff. At about 40 feet there is a bolt. The crux is well protected with cams place in a horizontal. There is another bolt at about 70 feet after the crux. On the remainder of the pitch the pro is contingent upon the exact line followed.I stayed on the face for the duration and found adequate pro with cams in horizontals, in huecos and in small cracks on the face.

Photos

Ken Heiser
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Ken Heiser   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Sorry. I forgot to mention in my description to rappel from the top of the "Varnishing Point" flake/pillar with 2 ropes from a two bolt anchor. Jan 2, 2005

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