Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Gary ? and
Page Views: 2,459 total · 17/month
Shared By: rockratrei on Nov 20, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Pitch 1 -(5.10) climb up over a bulge on overhanging water streaked rock and into the chimney (1 bolt protects the face) to a double bolt anchor
Pitch 1&2 - (5.9) variation start around the pillar to the right in the huge chasm (in the dark) work your way up and out of the chasm into a 4th class slot - continue up onto the black varnished face working up and right over a technical roof problem to the 2cd 2 bolt anchor in the chimney
Pitch 3 - (5.9) continue up the chimney to the 3rd double bolted anchor
Pitch 4 - more enjoyable climbing leads to the 4th anchor

Location

Right of Spectrum - goes up the chasm where the 4 sets of bolted anchors are in the topp for Spectrum.

Protection

SR

Photos

Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
 
This route is quite fun and has a engaging mix of technical and strategic cruxes.

We did the alternate start(5.7ish?) up the chimney on the right side of the pillar, which avoids the .10d crux pitch. Took gear up to #5 cam. There is a place to place a #6 if you wish to haul one up, but we never felt runout because of not having one. Rap the route with double 60m's. There is loose rock, especially as you move beneath the overhang on P2, so be careful what you pull on.


It was a treat to climb this on a sunny Sunday during spring break but not have another soul around us despite being just around the corner from Birdland. Mar 27, 2011
I believe Gary Fike and Don Burroughs did the first ascent. Mar 15, 2012
Bolts on this one are less than stellar right now with the exception of the top two stations. I particularly like the use of the power drill to chip out channels for the hangerless chain/washer setup to sit flush. The mixed metal pro bolt setups on P1 leave a lot to be desired.

How much tougher would it have been to just use a hanger or three to make these stations legit? I guess chipping and mixing metals seemed like a better idea.

I'd suggest trying the 5.7 R chimney variation to the 1st pitch to drop the overall grade to stiff .9, I think that puts this route a lot closer to doable for Birdland folks looking for a second option on a crowded day. The 5 and 6 cams were very useful, the second pitch has some rottenness so heads up for sure, still very fun though.

Also forgot, 9-11 size hexes will work really well at a few places. One of those routes they really make sense on. Nov 28, 2012
Aaron S
 
Aaron S  
 
This is a very fun route, well worth doing when the classics are getting mobbed (like right now). Both starts are good. The 5.7 chimney is pretty mellow, but might take some searching to find the best gear and path. The 10d start has fun climbing through two short and well protected cruxes.

They aren't listed here but there are two options for a 5th pitch. Either straight up the corner or up a varnished seam a few feet left of the belay.

Rapping from the top of pitch 5 with a single 70m was no problem. Mar 27, 2014
Mike Walley
Louisville, CO
  5.10d PG13
Mike Walley   Louisville, CO
  5.10d PG13
This is a very nice climb and would be 4 stars but for some loose rock. Poor description on MP about Brass Balls. Scramble around and boulder up on the left then start the climb just right of the little waterfall. Clip 3 bolts and pull the hard 5.10d crux. The 2nd bolt is a spinner, but ok. Use a long sling on the 3rd bolt to prevent the gate opening on the rock edge. Belay at bolts. The 2nd pitch goes up and around to the right, but be careful of rope drag. Go up the crack and then traverse to the right and then straight up the 5.9 face to the bolt anchor. The 3rd pitch is 5.7+ but we combined that with the next 5.9 pitch for one long pitch. Pitch 5 (or pitch 4 if you combined 3 and 4) is the offwidth that needs a 6" cam (#5 BD). Go up the wide crack, but use the face as you did the whole climb. Expect run-outs, but the crux is protected. Every pitch is good with sustained climbing on the whole route. Bring a full rack with small cams through the #5 Camalot. We didn't need nuts or short draws. You can rap the 5 pitches with a 60 meter rope. Enjoy this classic! Mar 1, 2015
Eugene Kwan 1
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Eugene Kwan 1   Cambridge, Massachusetts
Did the first three pitches today. For the start, I recommend soloing the slab on the left side instead of going directly up through the slopey notch. The crux is not that bad. The second bolt is still a spinner. I thought the rock quality was pretty poor overall. Meh. Nov 7, 2015
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
 
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
 
This is an OK route - 2 stars and nothing more. We did both versions of P1 and I think the 5.7 chimney is a better pitch - more interesting climbing and more consistent with the difficulty and character of the rest of the route. The 10d start is a well protected one move wonder that any gym climber should be able to pull through but the poorly protected 5.9 chimney above is the mental crux.

Much of the route is cruisy 5.6/5.7 with a move or two of harder climbing here and there. You can easily link any of the pitches above P1.

This route is a decent choice for a cold winter day or if your first objective is crowded but I wouldn't seek it out otherwise. Nov 12, 2015
Dana Marie
Cold Spring
Dana Marie   Cold Spring
I actually thought it was a fun route. I also did the 5.7 chimney start. The third pitch is a blast-probably the best on the route.

Beats hanging twenty off the chains at the top of P4 of Birdland. Just sayin' Sep 2, 2016