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Routes in Brass Wall

Alternative Facts T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arachnoworld T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Big Horn, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bird Cage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Birdland T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Hole, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brass Balls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bus Stops Here T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bush Pilots T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Chocolate Covered Bacon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cut Away T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Fungus folks T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Go Greyhound T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Heavy Spider Karma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hidden Persuaders, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
LojVegas T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mushroom People T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mystery Mushroom? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
No Laughing Matter T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nowhere Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Stop in Tonopah T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pazookieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Psycho Date T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rawlpindi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ripcord T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Sea of Holes T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Serious Business T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Simpatico T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sky Dive T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Sniveler T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spectrum T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tinkerbellfusse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Topless Twins T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valore T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varnishing Point T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zen and the Art of Web Spinning T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Xavier Wasiak, Josh Thompson, Nick Walendziak, Cody Hidler, Matt Carpenter
Page Views: 563 total · 50/month
Shared By: Xavier Wasiak on Feb 17, 2017
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Thin climbing up a corner with interesting body movement protected by small gear leads to a short thin hands crack that protects well. Continue on the left face and corner past a short run-out to more opportunities for gear. Then head on up to the last obstacle, an awkward left facing corner with good gear in the corner, that deposits you on a ledge. Although there are a couple of rests, the climbing is physical and engaging.

Location

The pitch climbs above the second pitch anchor to No Laughing Matter and Serious Business.

Protection

I took doubles from .3 BD to 2, and a single 3 that was useful for the anchor. I also took metolius 00 to 1, a green alien and a small off-set. I took a set of nuts but not sure if I placed any. Because of a few short run outs, I doubled up on gear at a few points. With the bolts in place, I would image you could cut back by 25-35%. There are now five pro-bolts and a two bolt anchor on the top.

Photos

Xavier Wasiak
Las Vegas, NV
 
Xavier Wasiak   Las Vegas, NV
 
Roughly 10 years ago(?) Josh Thompson and I climbed No Laughing Matter and looked up at a slightly loose looking corner and wondered if it would go. We climbed it, with some falls, and found no fixed gear. I rappelled leaving a couple of nuts as an anchor and also noticed a separate anchor made up of webbing on my right, about 30-40 feet away. The pitch went with gear, with a few falls, but it went and I thought about getting stronger to get it clean. I felt certain, and still do, that someone had already climbed it although there were no signs that it had been climbed. It's just too obvious a pitch. I returned 5 or so years later and climbed it with Nick Walendziak. Again I led it on gear, but fell at two places making my belayer nervous. Some of the falls were cringe-worthy. Again I thought, I have to come back when I'm stronger. Two weeks ago I went back with Cody Hidler and found the pitch bolted. I climbed it clipping bolts and fell at the last difficult section. I was disappointed that it now had 5 pro bolts because I thought they were not needed. I definitely believe that the world is large enough for there to be routes that challenge our minds as much as they challenge our bodies and that climbing without fixed gear is still the ideal. Style matters. I posted on MP about what I had found and within an hour I found out who bolted it and that it had not yet been sent by the equipper. As selfish as it seems, I knew I had to send the pitch in as good a style as I could and that's what I did. I went back with Matt Carpenter and sent it clean without clipping any of the bolts and I did not use the anchors. I don't have any illusions about the fact that others may have climbed it without fixed gear. After all, PVB and Randall Grandstaff were on the FA's of the two pitches below it and I can't believe these guys just decided to stop. Exploring about 30 feet above and to climber's left of the pitch, I found a left behind small hex that I think might have been left to bail off of but there are a couple of different ways to get up there, so I just don’t know. I’ve reached out to PVB to see if he has any information and will gladly give credit to anyone who’s climbed that pitch. I think it’s a cool pitch that folks would enjoy. As far as the bolts, I don’t think they should be there, but I fall short of dictating that they should be removed. Obviously, you can avoid clipping them, as I did. Feb 17, 2017
If this route was bolted ground up, no hooks, no chalk, and no previewing, would it be ok then? Feb 20, 2017
nicely done, Xavier. if there was a 'like' button, I'd click it. Feb 17, 2017