Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 838 total · 6/month
Shared By: outdooreric on Mar 31, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Excellent varnished rock with good pro but not much of it. Not a recommended lead for a 5.6 leader. I never felt the route was dangerous, but you WILL climb above your protection before getting another piece.

The route follows a nice series of hueco ladders up an improbable looking black face. Easier than it looks, but felt a little harder than Heavy Spider Karma.

Location

To the left of Heavy Spider Karma. Start on a boulder, high step right onto the face. Once at the top of the wall, either head way right to the Topless Twins bolted anchor, or there was some webbing around a boulder to the left to rap from.

Protection

.5 to 2.5" cams (1 ea.) and a set of nuts and slings.

Photos

Ben Townsend  
 
Demonstrating the difference between "unprotected" and "tricky to protect," this climb gobbles up Tricams, offset Aliens, and other inobvious gear. I had solid pro at least every body-length. It's a gorgeous, somewhat unlikely-looking easy climb. Nov 29, 2014