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Routes in Brass Wall
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Alternative Facts T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Arachnoworld T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Big Horn, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bird Cage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Birdland T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Birdlaw T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black Hole, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Brass Balls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bus Stops Here T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Bush Pilots T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chocolate Covered Bacon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cut Away T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Fungus folks T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Go Greyhound T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Heavy Spider Karma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hidden Persuaders, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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LojVegas T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Mo (AKA Nowhere Man) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Moons Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Mushroom People T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mystery Mushroom? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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No Laughing Matter T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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One Stop in Tonopah T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pazookieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Psycho Date T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Raptor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Rawlpindi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ripcord T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Rogue Fungus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sea of Holes T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Serious Business T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Shifting Narratives T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Simpatico T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Sky Dive T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Sniveler T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Spectrum T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Super Greens T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Super S T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Table Greens T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tinkerbellfusse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Topless Twins T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unfinished Business T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Valore T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Varnishing Fact T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Varnishing Point T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Zen and the Art of Web Spinning T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Mike Weber, Taylor Fahey Dec 2023 |
| Page Views: | 649 total · 55/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Fahey on Dec 11, 2023 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
A very fun and adventurous outing up one of the most obvious lines on brass wall - the massive S crack that lies above vanishing point. For a climb that has been done few if any times, it overall has great rock quality and many memorable pitches. It brings you to a massive terrace high above brass wall where you can then continue your adventure to the top of bridge mountain. If you’re not up for this, you can work way down a gully that leads to a ~20ft 5.6 traverse into the final pitch of Birdland (Note: since this beta was written a better decent option has been discovered, see beta below)
Pitch 1 (5.9+) - When on the very right side of the ledge, look up and identify the obvious finger crack. The first pitch goes up the left leaning ramp and up the finger crack through a mini roof. Follow the finger crack up until you hit the large roof. Traverse left about 20 ft to the base of the roof. .75 and .5 help for protecting the traverse. Finger sizes or 3/4 can be used for the anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.9+) - Follow the hand crack through the roof, traversing left before heading up. Ends at a nice ledge. There is a nice ledge halfway through this pitch that can be used to split it up if desired.
Pitch 3 (5.8) - Pull a move off the ledge to get to a nice varnish face. Continue up easier terrain until you get to a ledge just before a varnished slot that leads to a vegetated ledge with a tree.
scramble about 200 feet climbers left until you are at the base of a nice varnished face. We did a few easy 5th class moves during the traverse but nothing was exposed.
Pitch 4 (5.8) - head straight up the varnished face. After the face continue heading upwards through the path of least resistance. End at a ledge at the start of a ridge.
scramble 100 ft of 3rd / easy 4th class to the top of the ridge. This leads to a ledge with a gully and another headwall. Downclimb into the gully.
Pitch 5 (5.fun) - there are a couple options here to climb a crack through a roof. We were debating them, but when we noticed there was a tunnel we could possibly use to bypass the roof we couldn’t resist. Climb up the slab and through the tunnel, then up easy terrain to another large ledge with a gully between you and the ridge to bridge mountain.
From here you have some options. If you wish to summit bridge mountain, see option one below. If you’ve had enough adventure for the day, see option two.
Option one:
Final scramble (5.tree) - climb into the gulley where the right tree is, and use the tree to climb out onto the rock face on the other side of the gully. Scramble up the face 100 feet or so to the massive ledge system. The easiest way to bridge point is via the gully system that comes from birdland. The gully directly above you also goes and eventually merges into this gully, but is a bit more adventurous. It has recently been pruned.
Option two:
Rather than scrambling into the gully by the right tree, scramble into the gully by the left tree. Start heading down the gully climbers left. It quickly becomes a beautiful slot canyon. After a couple hundred feet you will reach a point where you can go left down a side canyon, straight, or right. Going left leads to bolts that I believe will bring you near the top of raptor. I have not yet done this decent but have been told it can be done with a single 70M if done correctly. Detailed pictures and beta on this can be found on Summit Post, written by Dow Williams.
We opted to go straight instead (no longer recommended). After another 200 ft you will trend slightly left and go down into a large gully on your right. Do your best to stay out of the gully as long as possible to avoid bushwhacking. When you can't follow it anymore, get into the gully and traverse the right wall. When you peer around the corner from here you will see the anchors of the final pitch of birdland.
Historical Info:
I've gathered information that the first two pitches described here were climbed in 1986 by two folks named Mac from Denver and Dave from the UK. From here they wandered off right and thrashed down a gully. Interestingly a very old hard stem cam was found deep in the chimney of pitch 2, likely from them. This is the only known other ascent of these pitches. It is unknown whether pitches 3-5 were climbed prior to our ascent.
Photos
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