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Routes in Brass Wall

Alternative Facts T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arachnoworld T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Big Horn, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bird Cage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Birdland T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Hole, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brass Balls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bus Stops Here T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bush Pilots T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Chocolate Covered Bacon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cut Away T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Fungus folks T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Go Greyhound T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Heavy Spider Karma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hidden Persuaders, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
LojVegas T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mushroom People T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mystery Mushroom? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
No Laughing Matter T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nowhere Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Stop in Tonopah T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pazookieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Psycho Date T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rawlpindi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ripcord T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Sea of Holes T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Serious Business T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Simpatico T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sky Dive T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Sniveler T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spectrum T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tinkerbellfusse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Topless Twins T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valore T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varnishing Point T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zen and the Art of Web Spinning T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: D Diegelmann, R. Grandstaff, G. Child, '79
Page Views: 7,449 total, 41/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 1, 2003
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is a great route, but would not be fun in the sun. The black varnish we love as edges makes for a slick glass like surface devoid of friction or significant features in places. Still, the moves are stellar and the climb nice, long, and sustained. I had a blast on this route.

Be warned in advance, due to lack of friction and features, the grade of this climb is quite height dependent. A 5'10" climber with ape-like arms (me) or a 6'0" man will find the grade about right. It will be a little easier for the very tall and could be much harder for the very short.

Approach the Brass Wall and mark up the twin splitters on the left end, 'Topless Twins' and then look slightly left to a peerless dark face, cut by a thin crack and offset. This crack leads up 100' to a huge round hueco, and is none other than Mushroom People.

Climb up the route, placing a few pieces for a low 5.9 crux, then continue up and onward to a reachy crux at a slight offset with slippery feet. Past the crux continue up and left again with good holds, good rest and good gear to a fixed anchor.

Rap 95' to the ground on a 60M rope. 2 ropes are not necessary as per the Swain guidebook if you have a 60M.

Protection

A healthy set of stoppers including brass, plus cams from small to 3". Tricams optional. A 60M rope just makes the rap with a meter or two to spare.
Dave Alie
Golden, CO
 
Dave Alie   Golden, CO
 
I found the start to be reasonably well-protected despite the reputation of 5.9R off the deck. If the other climbers who came after us are any indication, it seems the standard beta is to run it out through this section, but those uninterested in dangerous climbing should look closely at the start before skipping this pitch. Off-set cams or stoppers might make finding a good placement easier, but even without I was able to find what felt to be adequate protection to the break. Extremely fun climbing throughout, highly recommended. Jan 5, 2017
vietgoeswest
Portland
 
vietgoeswest   Portland
 
Fellow short climbers - get your left toe in high. I'm 5'5 and didn't have to dyno to reach the lip. Very cool balancy move! Nov 9, 2015
John Ryan
Poncha Springs, CO
 
John Ryan   Poncha Springs, CO
 
Got on this thinking it was an easier classic, but was very glad I did! The crux can be protected well with a medium nut and/or a 00 Metolius Master Cam or TCU. Do it! Apr 1, 2014
Danie White
SLC, UT
 
Danie White   SLC, UT
 
I, too, am short and had to dyno for the lip. (A tall friend sandbagged me onto this one.) The dyno was successful--and even if it hadn't been, the pro was bomber--and now I'm here to rate this climb four stars due to its beautiful varnish, snaking crack, and neat move. If you're tall, this one is probably more straight forward, but dynos on crack pitches are kinda memorable for us shorties. (I'm 5'4" and usually solid on 5.10 sandstone crack.) Jun 15, 2013
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.10+
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.10+
Fun route. Totally worth doing when its really cold out. My friend that's 5.9 did it with no problem. You don't need to be 5'10 with long arms to get the crux static. I'm about 5'6 and was about an inch from getting the right crimp static. I did find a mono right above the crux where everyone seems to do a layback/sidepull and then dyno for the jug straight up. It's easy breezy afterwards Jan 19, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10+
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10+
A few things: C3's or TCU's make this a safe lead. This is definitely hard no matter how tall you are really but is very well protected. My girlfriend onsighted it the "creeper" way by creeping up through the crux and then finally busted a slightly dynamic move to reach the ledge. I, on the other hand, had to burl dog my way through all the crimping bullshit and felt it was spot on for the grade. Mar 23, 2012
Drew Peterson
  5.10d
Drew Peterson  
  5.10d
10d for me at 5'8"; it all protects very well. Mar 6, 2012
The crux is height dependent, but my friend that's 5'0" could get a foot high enough to static the move with a little more work. Fantastic route. Apr 5, 2011
PDF
 
PDF  
 
I am short, had to dino to the lip.

For this reason, 4 stars, coolest move I have done on a route under 5.12

Felt harder than 10D, but my partner who is 5.8 thought it was easier.

Not an R. Great Gear the whole way. Feb 21, 2009
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10+
So good! Protects really well too, there's a blue alien down low for the first mantely move and bomber nuts and micros at the crux. Forget about trying to blindly fidget something in at the crux...
You gotta love the complete absence of friction on the face and the squeaky sound of the rubber on that varnish! Jan 2, 2008
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10b/c
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10b/c
Good route and a nice line. Funky little crux is a cool move. A med stopper protects the business section. Feb 14, 2007
holy cow. with the posted photos of this route, i think i could wire the crux sitting at my computer!

taking beta to the next level! Apr 20, 2006
d-know
electric lady land
  5.10+
d-know   electric lady land
  5.10+
beautifull bullet hard varnish. definately a one move wonder. might be a little heady if your not comfy at this grade. Jan 26, 2006
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c PG13
The 'R' comes from the potential ground fall right off the deck. Although you can get one piece in right away, your next one doesn't come for long enough to be worrisome if you're new to the 5.10 grade. That said, the climb, while long, is not that sustained- in the .8/.9 range for most of it, with the start being low .10 and the crux itself being one move of .10, maybe .10+.

This is the first .10+ in RR that i've done that i would say isn't classic- but even saying that, it's still pretty good! Dec 16, 2005