Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: D Diegelmann, R. Grandstaff, G. Child, '79
Page Views: 10,420 total · 49/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 1, 2003
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This is a great route, but would not be fun in the sun. The black varnish we love as edges makes for a slick glass like surface devoid of friction or significant features in places. Still, the moves are stellar and the climb nice, long, and sustained. I had a blast on this route.

Be warned in advance, due to lack of friction and features, the grade of this climb is quite height dependent. A 5'10" climber with ape-like arms (me) or a 6'0" man will find the grade about right. It will be a little easier for the very tall and could be much harder for the very short.

Approach the Brass Wall and mark up the twin splitters on the left end, 'Topless Twins' and then look slightly left to a peerless dark face, cut by a thin crack and offset. This crack leads up 100' to a huge round hueco, and is none other than Mushroom People.

Climb up the route, placing a few pieces for a low 5.9 crux, then continue up and onward to a reachy crux at a slight offset with slippery feet. Past the crux continue up and left again with good holds, good rest and good gear to a fixed anchor.

Rap 95' to the ground on a 60M rope. 2 ropes are not necessary as per the Swain guidebook if you have a 60M.

Protection

A healthy set of stoppers including brass, plus cams from small to 3". Tricams optional. A 60M rope just makes the rap with a meter or two to spare.

Photos