Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,619 total · 17/month
Shared By: rockratrei on Jan 23, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


P1 - same as Varnishing Point
P2 start 10' left of second pitch of varnishing point - follow a nice crack that becomes a left leaning seam to a hole, then continue up the crack and hand traverse right and make final moves to a 2-bolt belay.
Double rope rap to the ground.




tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
Or rap back to ledge with one rope - 100 feet, and then rap Bush Pilots.
It looked like there might be some hazard of getting your rope stuck if you try the full 2 rope rappel.
You can also approach this route from Bush Pilots. Nov 18, 2009
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
The entire center of this route - about 50 or more feet - is a giant loose, hollow flake. You can get "good" gear but in very questionable rock. The climbing is fun but I am concerned it could peel off and kill climber and belayer. I love scary routes but won't do this one again. We rapped the entire route to the ground with 2 ropes and had no issue with rope getting stuck. Feb 21, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
The movement and overall climbing is very good. The climb slowly progresses into it's difficulty and finally caps off with a nice hand traverse on good holds and varnished feet. But, the quality of the rock makes for a pretty scary ride as you suspect anything might give at any point in time. Luckily there are a few spots of solid rock that take pretty bomber gear. Feb 3, 2012
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
Just did this route yesterday. Route eats nuts and I probably placed 4 cams and rest nuts. Don't let the read on hollow flakes scare you away. Good route to do when it's cold out along with other routes on this wall. Jan 19, 2013
Matt Kuehl
Las Vegas
Matt Kuehl   Las Vegas
Good moves… but overall the route's quality is really lessened due to the detached nature of the entire crux section and more. Worth climbing but use caution. Jan 14, 2014
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
Some of the absolute worse gear I've ever climbed above.

Some of the absolute best moves across stone I've ever enjoyed.

Not for the feint of heart, true. But for the bold or the reckless or both, this line is a must, must do. (And for those with monkey arms, this will likely feel like it's clocking in at 9+) Apr 11, 2014
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
This is a great route with varied, interesting climbing. It’s mostly 5.7 & 5.8 with one punchy 5.10 move. Don’t believe the posts about scary protection – there are indeed some fragile flakes but if you’re careful you can place all your pro in bomber rock. Nov 17, 2014
Neillong Feller   Golden
Took a variation on P2 which was fun and attention grabbing.
Shortly after passing the giant pods you could huddle in I moved right onto the face when the crack went left at a small pod, and trended right while moving up. The climbing had great face moves on papier-mache-like patinas and I got a couple nuts in rock that sounded like an empty cardboard box and girth hitched a little arch that may have held a wet cat. The moves were very nice but like others comments I was afraid the wall would disassemble. After maybe 30 feet it joins another crack with more reasonable pro (if the whole wall doesn't fall). Came up to the anchors from their right in a wide crack where I was glad to put a #3 or 4 (maybe that is standard finish).
I'm not sure how it compares to the normal way, it felt 5.9c/d PG-15+, anywhere from 0 to 3 stars I have mixed feelings. I actually thought I was climbing the second pitch of birdland and was thinking "how is this a 5.7 trade route and where are all the people that we passed on the way here?" Anyway, if you find yourself on this house of cards, this variation is an option. It goes, it goes...yuh! Feb 6, 2017
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
I thought this pitch was incredible, for what it's worth. We did Bush Pilots to get to it which makes for a fun two pitches of 10- climbing. Mar 8, 2017
Alistair Veitch
Mountain View, CA
Alistair Veitch   Mountain View, CA
This and Varnishing Point are the best pitches in the area IMO. Ignore the comments on bad gear - there are bomber placements the whole way, if you look for them. There are some thin flakes you want to avoid for gear and use carefully while climbing, but this climb has great fun and thoughtful moves. Apr 16, 2018