Type: Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Joe and Betsy Herbst, Matt McMackin, Randal Grandstaff
Page Views: 10,906 total · 62/month
Shared By: Ian Wolfe on Apr 26, 2006
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

The route begins under the crack that splits the middle of the Brass Wall Left face and runs into the right side of a bushy ledge. Start underneath a large boulder.

Pitches 1 and 2 (5.7) follow the first two pitches of Birdland up the crack to a ledge and then up (or next to, depending on how you are feeling) the chimney system to a large bushy ledge. Bolted anchors.

Pitch 3 (5.3): Scramble left up some bouldery pillar features to the base of the enormous right-facing corner at the bottom of the obvious crack and build a trad anchor. 50 feet.

Pitch 4 (5.8): Climb the crack through the center of the varnished face. It starts wide and narrows to hand size before running into a lip, which forms the short crux of the climb with good hands but little feet. Finish up as the crack narrows to finger size with good face holds to a bolted anchor and rap slings. This pitch is the reason to climb this route!

Pitches 5 and 6 (5.7 R): Not recommended. Climb the face to the top of the cliff.

Rappel with 2 ropes.

Protection

Standard Red Rock rack to a number 3 camalot. I found a set of nuts very useful on this climb.

Photos