Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,353 total · 8/month
Shared By: rockratrei on Jan 23, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


Left of "One Stop in Tonopah" and right of "Varnishing Point". Way fun!
Rap off a communal anchor with double ropes.


2 bolts protect the hard face moves, the rest is small gear up to 1"


- No Photos -
Lacie Brownell   Burien
Just above the 2nd bolt there is an undercling you may really want to use, but the rock feels like it will pull off as soon as any weight is put on it. It's a large piece and would likely ruin your day when it comes off. There are decent options that aren't as juggy, but they will stay on the wall at least. Apr 5, 2010
Jon O'Brien
  5.11- R
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
  5.11- R
worked on TR, i felt this route was absolutely outstanding and will be a very proud lead. highly recommended to at least work on TR after leading up simpatico. varnishing point won't get you to the preferred anchor... the superhero layback/ handcrack right facing mini-corner would take a gold cam (2'') as well...


jon Feb 7, 2011
Jonathan K
Jonathan K  
Awesome route the crux is committing but above a bolt and the top is a bit run out with techy moves. Jan 2, 2012
Las Vegas
sqwirll   Las Vegas
The previously mentioned undercling is no more. Luckily nobody got hurt as it broke off in a 50 lb chunk. The route still goes though. Feb 12, 2012
Austin Boren
las vegas Nevada
Austin Boren   las vegas Nevada
feels like 11b without the good undercling, at least on lead. Its my favorite on the wall. Dec 14, 2013
Vertical slab climbing. Feels like 11+ bouldering in the sun. People should be aware that literally every piece up to the bolt where the crux begins is hollow and mainly eye candy, and the bolts themselves on this one could really use replacement, since at 50'+ off the deck, they're the only pieces that have a prayer of keeping you from joining the rest of the Tea Party in the Magic Cloud Castle...even with screamers, I can't see any gear holding in that hollow rock up to the crux, not even for a short fall. Probably better as a toprope, and now that holds are broken not the easy end of 5.11, either. Take that with a grain of salt, though. I climbed it on a hot day and it was melting my shoes. Winter and overcast days only on this one. Jan 30, 2014
harrison t
Black Hills, SD
  5.11a PG13
harrison t   Black Hills, SD
  5.11a PG13
11a at the hardest. Crux is short and above a bolt. Don't TR this before leading it, it would just ruin your experience. The flake climbing, although hollow, is not any harder than 10- and shouldn't be a worry to anyone looking to get on a "bold" 5.11. Jan 17, 2015
Bryan Bornholdt
Las Vegas, NV
Bryan Bornholdt   Las Vegas, NV
This genuinely is a great pitch but the cautions are well-warranted. I led it and found it to be straight-forward BUT falling is just not a good idea. Sure, the bolts are probably good but by then you are far off the ground and if a bolt failed it would be terrifying to need the gear below. Still, I would do it again.

The mantle move is pretty heady because you are well above the first bolt and it would be a spooky fall.

Has anyone actually fallen on any of the gear placements? Jan 12, 2016
I led the FA of this route in the mid 80's and named it Crackers after a local strip club. Other members of the FA team included Jay Smith ,Paul Crawford and Paul Obanhiem. We climbed ground up onsight hand drilling bolts and placing gear and a few pins including one drilled angle. Rated it 10d but I knew it was a tad harder! Mar 14, 2017