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Routes in Brass Wall

Alternative Facts T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arachnoworld T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Big Horn, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bird Cage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Birdland T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Hole, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brass Balls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bus Stops Here T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bush Pilots T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Chocolate Covered Bacon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cut Away T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Fungus folks T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Go Greyhound T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Heavy Spider Karma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hidden Persuaders, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
LojVegas T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mushroom People T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mystery Mushroom? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
No Laughing Matter T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nowhere Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Stop in Tonopah T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pazookieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Psycho Date T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rawlpindi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ripcord T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Sea of Holes T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Serious Business T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Simpatico T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sky Dive T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Sniveler T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spectrum T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tinkerbellfusse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Topless Twins T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valore T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varnishing Point T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zen and the Art of Web Spinning T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,658 total · 14/month
Shared By: Sara Weimar on Jul 17, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Pitch 1 (5.8): Climb up the short chimney to the right of Birdland, above pitch 2 of Birdland. You can belay here to ease rope drag. Step down from the top of the chimney to get into a finger crack. Build an anchor to belay at the top of this crack.

Pitch 2 (5.8R/X): Continue up the crack, as it runs out. Continue straight up the face, getting some small gear in a small alcove, before running it out on the delicate face for about 50 feet. Finish at the bolt anchors for pitch 4 of Birdland.

Descent: Same as Birdland.

Location

This route is a variation to the right of Birdland. Climb the first two pitches of Birdland and then go right up a short chimney (optional belay point) to find the route, instead of going left on the ramp to the bolt. The route ends at the pitch 4 anchors of Birdland.

Protection

Mostly small gear, especially for the second pitch (got a small BD C3 in before the long runout).

Photos

Sara Weimar
Del Rio, TX
  5.8
Sara Weimar   Del Rio, TX
  5.8
If anyone climbed this line before Ryan and I did, please let me know. I emailed Jerry Handren and he was pretty sure this line had not been done before. Jul 17, 2008
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
I went about half way up this route to retrieve a rope that managed to get snagged on the rap off Birdland. Looked like a nice line. Jul 17, 2008
This line has been climbed on numerous occasions by individuals who are lost on Birdland. Before Birdland was in a guidebook -- but I was guiding it all the time -- I witnessed 10+ ascents of this line.

That's not to say that the name shouldn't stay for the variation.

Thanks for posting it!

Jason Jul 22, 2008
Sara Weimar
Del Rio, TX
  5.8
Sara Weimar   Del Rio, TX
  5.8
Jason,

Are you sure the second pitch has been climbed? I'm sure that people have done the lower crack, but it does not extend all the way to the anchors. Once you start on the second pitch, the gear runs completely out and it is all face climbing straight up to the anchors. The route is also a little further right than it looks in the picture because of the angle of the shot.

Sara Jul 31, 2008
Sara,

It's definitely been done on multiple occasions. People used to really get lost up there. Many only had a weak route description with no picture, so they often ended up out in space to the right.

Jason
Aug 4, 2008
Sara Weimar
Del Rio, TX
  5.8
Sara Weimar   Del Rio, TX
  5.8
If somebody's actually got photos of them on this line, let me know and I'll change the names of the first ascentionist. Somehow, I don't think anyone "wandered" onto this line on the upper pitches and if they did, they deserve the FA. The beta photo is a bit deceiving in how close this looks to Birdland; it really isn't that close, but is more to the right than it looks in the picture. Also, the second pitch really deserves an R/X, if you miss the pro down low and if you don't go out left at all toward Birdland and protection. Sep 10, 2008
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
Sara, you would be amazed at how far off-route some people can get. On my first trip to RR, I climbed a line a hundred feet to the left of "Cat in the Hat." It took me a couple of years to realize I had not done the route I intended. I think my partner still believes we did "Cat in the Hat!"

Even though it didn't fit the description exactly, I mentally shoe-horned what I was doing onto the description. Lots of us are used to guidebook descriptions that don't fit how we look at the rocks ourselves.

Jason was one of the early people to be aware of the "Birdland" area, and he spent quite a bit of time in that area. Sep 10, 2008
"The second pitch really deserves an R/X, if you miss the pro down low and if you don't go out left at all toward Birdland and protection."

This is totally in line with what the lost climbers claimed. In fact, I remember seeing one beginner/intermediate leader over there who was so scared he was almost to the point of tears because he was looking at a death fall. I stand by my original statement. It's -- without a doubt -- been climbed a number of times.

Jason Sep 10, 2008
marc rosenthal
Canyon Lake, TX
marc rosenthal   Canyon Lake, TX
Doug,

You said "On my first trip to RR, I climbed a line a hundred feet to the left of "Cat in the Hat." That is exactly what happened to me the first time I led it. I couldn't understand why a 5.6 pitch could feel so damn intimidating. Thing is, it looked like the logical way to go. That often happens when you are off-route. Sep 10, 2008
if you have not been to RR its easy to get off route if you don't have a book/good beta - huge gamble with your life so better safe than sorry- no big flashy signs indicating routes- I wish RR park service would put in some kind of route markers at the base (for safety reasons) because we ran into a huge traffic jam on Johnny Vegas because some bone head went up Beulah's Book thinking it was JV. poor guys gf almost had a heart attack getting up the first pitch and went completely off route and ended up at chains of jv- huge inconvenience three people at the chains coming up is not a good sight to see. top it off climbers waiting below were super pissed hanging out in the shade shivering - Dec 3, 2017
sqwirll
Las Vegas
sqwirll   Las Vegas
I think we should also paint all the holds blue to ensure people don't get off route. Dec 5, 2017

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