Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Joe Herbst and Larry Hamilton, March 1976
Page Views: 5,369 total · 25/month
Shared By: Scott Conner on Dec 14, 2001
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

145 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


The Brass Wall is split by a nice looking 2-pitch crack system with a big ledge halfway up. This is Varnishing Point.

P1: 5.5, ~80' Climb an easy crack with good pro to a large ledge.

P2: 5.8+, ~80' Climb up to an overhang and lieback out left following the crack. Clip a bolt on the face before you climb down and right of an offwidth section to the rap anchors on another small ledge. This pitch is full value but takes great gear.

Descent: Double rope rap.


Pro to 3" works fine.


L. Hamilton  
Historical note: FA March 1976, Joe Herbst and Larry Hamilton. The name was inspired by the 1971 cult movie "Vanishing Point," which had recently been screened in Boulder. Feb 26, 2004
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
Randy Carmichael   Boulder, CO
A #4 Camalot is useful on both the 1st and 2nd pitches. Nov 8, 2004
Although the pitches are short, this is still a fun, worthwhile route to do. We only had gear to a #3, which was fine, but on the initial moves of pitch 1, it would have been nice to be able to sink a #4 cam in above a huge, very suspect looking block, before standing on it. Looks like it'll break off one day. I didn't trust it enough to put my full weight on it, that's for sure! Jan 6, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Contrary to the Brock (big red) guidebook, pitch 2 is about 90', NOT 150'. Approx 130' total to ground from the top of pitch 2. Jan 1, 2007
Steve Blevins
Central Coast, CA
Steve Blevins   Central Coast, CA
Maybe I missed a hold, but the crux moves are as hard as any 5.9 I've done. I had to really crank into the lieback because the patina is so slick my foot popped off with a comfortable lieback start. I found nearby Topless Twins a comfortable 5.9. Mar 28, 2009
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
steve- there's a key patch of unvarnished rock for that lieback move that keeps it in the 5.8 range- if you missed that, it would probably feel harder. Mar 31, 2009
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
Linking the two pitches with a 60m rope is no problem if you keep rope drag in mind.

A bit of a one move wonder in terms of difficulty, but still pretty enjoyable. Feb 14, 2010
Does anyone know if you can get off the top of P2 with a 70m rope? We got up the first pitch before realizing that the rap bolts were "on the backside" and we didn't want to risk an epic, or more importantly, a big fat ticket. Dec 8, 2012
Mike Robinson
Boulder, CO
Mike Robinson   Boulder, CO
You can definitely get off of this with a single 70m with rope stretch. Jan 9, 2015
To clarify, there is a bolt with quicklink at the top of this climb, but if you climb over the top and step down to a large ledge, there is a two-bolt anchor. From this anchor (the same one used on Go Greyhound, etc.) it is 35m to the ground. Jan 10, 2015
John Oberbeck
  5.8+ PG13
John Oberbeck  
  5.8+ PG13
Climbed this route on Sunday.
P1- straightforward 5.6 climbing with a spider crux maybe 8 feet off the deck for the arachnophobes out there.
P2- from the belay ledge, traverse left, then back right up the class III ramp for for the first 6 feet or so. Crux is moving from beneath the left-facing roof right onto the face. The second half of the pitch has dubious places for protection. A #4 c4 is helpful, as are smaller cams. Bring two ropes for the rap. Nov 15, 2016
Pawel Janowski
Pawel Janowski   WA
Easy to combine as a single pitch. Great climb, full value. Mar 6, 2018
Albi Eds
Brooklyn, NY
Albi Eds   Brooklyn, NY
I'm not too certain what Mike Robinson is talking about getting off of this with a single 70m - we rappelled down and had to setup a sling around a handle made by the huecos on Go Greyhound. Oct 23, 2018
tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
You can rap with one 60m in two raps. 1st rap from the chains to the big ledge. You need to swing over a little. Direct the rap rope towards your goal, not straight down. You can set an anchor here at the top of P1. 2nd rap - walk 15 feet to the chains on the big ledge. Nov 21, 2018
Bryan Friesen
Henderson, NV
Bryan Friesen   Henderson, NV
If you follow the route description and down climb after clipping the bolt at the top of the route, a 70m will get you down to the ground. Also, a #4 C4 wouldn't hurt to have if you're at your limit. The first half of the second pitch is awesome. Jan 6, 2019