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Routes in Brass Wall

Alternative Facts T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arachnoworld T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Big Horn, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bird Cage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Birdland T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Hole, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brass Balls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bus Stops Here T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bush Pilots T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Chocolate Covered Bacon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cut Away T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Fungus folks T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Go Greyhound T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Heavy Spider Karma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hidden Persuaders, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
LojVegas T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mushroom People T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mystery Mushroom? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
No Laughing Matter T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nowhere Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Stop in Tonopah T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pazookieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Psycho Date T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rawlpindi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ripcord T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Sea of Holes T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Serious Business T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Simpatico T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sky Dive T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Sniveler T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spectrum T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tinkerbellfusse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Topless Twins T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valore T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varnishing Point T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zen and the Art of Web Spinning T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Joe Herbst and Larry Hamilton, March 1976
Page Views: 4,589 total, 24/month
Shared By: Scott Conner on Dec 14, 2001
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

The Brass Wall is split by a nice looking 2-pitch crack system with a big ledge halfway up. This is Varnishing Point.

P1: 5.5, ~80' Climb an easy crack with good pro to a large ledge.

P2: 5.8+, ~80' Climb up to an overhang and lieback out left following the crack. Clip a bolt on the face before you climb down and right of an offwidth section to the rap anchors on another small ledge. This pitch is full value but takes great gear.

Descent: Double rope rap.

Protection

Pro to 3" works fine.
John Oberbeck
  5.8+ PG13
John Oberbeck  
  5.8+ PG13
Climbed this route on Sunday.
P1- straightforward 5.6 climbing with a spider crux maybe 8 feet off the deck for the arachnophobes out there.
P2- from the belay ledge, traverse left, then back right up the class III ramp for for the first 6 feet or so. Crux is moving from beneath the left-facing roof right onto the face. The second half of the pitch has dubious places for protection. A #4 c4 is helpful, as are smaller cams. Bring two ropes for the rap. Nov 15, 2016
To clarify, there is a bolt with quicklink at the top of this climb, but if you climb over the top and step down to a large ledge, there is a two-bolt anchor. From this anchor (the same one used on Go Greyhound, etc.) it is 35m to the ground. Jan 10, 2015
Mike Robinson
Boulder, CO
 
Mike Robinson   Boulder, CO
 
You can definitely get off of this with a single 70m with rope stretch. Jan 9, 2015
Canon  
Does anyone know if you can get off the top of P2 with a 70m rope? We got up the first pitch before realizing that the rap bolts were "on the backside" and we didn't want to risk an epic, or more importantly, a big fat ticket. Dec 8, 2012
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8+
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8+
Linking the two pitches with a 60m rope is no problem if you keep rope drag in mind.

A bit of a one move wonder in terms of difficulty, but still pretty enjoyable. Feb 14, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
 
steve- there's a key patch of unvarnished rock for that lieback move that keeps it in the 5.8 range- if you missed that, it would probably feel harder. Mar 31, 2009
Steve Blevins
Central Coast, CA
5.9
Steve Blevins   Central Coast, CA
5.9
Maybe I missed a hold, but the crux moves are as hard as any 5.9 I've done. I had to really crank into the lieback because the patina is so slick my foot popped off with a comfortable lieback start. I found nearby Topless Twins a comfortable 5.9. Mar 28, 2009
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Contrary to the Brock (big red) guidebook, pitch 2 is about 90', NOT 150'. Approx 130' total to ground from the top of pitch 2. Jan 1, 2007
Although the pitches are short, this is still a fun, worthwhile route to do. We only had gear to a #3, which was fine, but on the initial moves of pitch 1, it would have been nice to be able to sink a #4 cam in above a huge, very suspect looking block, before standing on it. Looks like it'll break off one day. I didn't trust it enough to put my full weight on it, that's for sure! Jan 6, 2006
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Randy Carmichael   Boulder, CO
  5.8+
A #4 Camalot is useful on both the 1st and 2nd pitches. Nov 8, 2004
L. Hamilton  
 
Historical note: FA March 1976, Joe Herbst and Larry Hamilton. The name was inspired by the 1971 cult movie "Vanishing Point," which had recently been screened in Boulder. Feb 26, 2004