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Routes in Brass Wall

Alternative Facts T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arachnoworld T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Big Horn, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bird Cage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Birdland T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Hole, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brass Balls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bus Stops Here T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bush Pilots T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Chocolate Covered Bacon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cut Away T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Fungus folks T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Go Greyhound T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Heavy Spider Karma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hidden Persuaders, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
LojVegas T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mushroom People T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mystery Mushroom? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
No Laughing Matter T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nowhere Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Stop in Tonopah T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pazookieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Psycho Date T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rawlpindi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ripcord T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Sea of Holes T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Serious Business T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Simpatico T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sky Dive T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Sniveler T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spectrum T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tinkerbellfusse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Topless Twins T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valore T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varnishing Point T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zen and the Art of Web Spinning T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: R. Grandstaff, W. Broussard, '80
Page Views: 10,661 total, 59/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 1, 2003
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This a set of twin cracks, but as irony would have it, they top out all too soon. The climb is up a pleasant crack system which is worthy of attention and merit, but runs for only a single pitch. A shame, as were this a longer system it would be a classic Red Rocks climb.

To locate this route, approach the left side of the Brass Wall. As you do, keep out an eye for a set of twin splitters, starting as a single crack perhaps 10' off of the ground and then splitting and slowly separating along their length. This route has a little of everything, including a nice solid crux to keep it interesting.

From the fixed anchor up top, Rap 70' to the ground on a single rope.

Protection

A standard rack of stoppers and cams.
Midwest Will
ann arbor, MI
Midwest Will   ann arbor, MI
Climbed this route dec 15 '14. Bolts were fine. To the posters that think the route is easy or should be/would be 5.8 i think you might be dogging the route by using the left crack to much. I did right crack only and it felt every bit of 5.9. And note guidebook description in attached pic.
Dec 21, 2014
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.9
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.9
I used mainly nuts on this route and I think a .75 and #1 ? Jan 19, 2013
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
Try to stay in the left crack for a full value pitch. Dec 28, 2012
Canon
  5.9
Canon  
  5.9
You can really sew this thing up with nuts and small gear! I placed a gold #2 camalot, and all of the rest was under green #.75 camalot size.

Anchor was in great shape, no movement. Dec 8, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
Yeah, those fixe rap bolts are prone to that sort of problem in sandstone- it's the main reason we install regular hangers with either rings or mussy hooks here.

No problem- I'm happy that folks are posting up when they have a concern about a bolt- it's a great way to let the locals know and ensure that we get out and replace bad hardware!! Mar 25, 2010
You know that's a good point the position of that ring might have ground out some sand from below the bolt as my partner swung around below me. Either way thanks for going out and checking on the anchor after hearing about the bolt, its good to know there are people out there willing to put in the effort to keep places like Red Rock safe. Mar 25, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
Are you sure that wasn't the hanger grinding on the rock? Those types of hangers are prone to that sort of movement.

The exposed sleeve isn't ideal, but in red rock, on a wall that is more sun exposed than any other in the park, the bolt isn't likely to see any significant corrosion in the near future- which is the only real danger here- that bolt is unmoving and completely solid in the wall- I wouldn't have left it otherwise. Under normal circumstances, I would have still replaced the bolt, but currently, it is illegal to replace bolts in the wilderness as the environmental assesment that allowed for replacement has expired. The BLM has implied that a bolt that endangers lives may be replaced without repurcussion, but otherwise we need to wait for the EA to be reinstated. Both my partner and I feel that the condition the bolt is currently in is fine for use and poses no significant danger to the users of the climb.

Once the EA is reinstated, the LVCLC will put this bolt on it's replacement list.

Thanks for the heads up regardless- it's always good to hear about the conditons of bolts in the canyons. Mar 25, 2010
Well as my partner rapped off the ring fulcrumed the hanger outward releasing a good deal of fine sand particles. I watched this happen as I was clipped into the anchor at eye level. I will say that I rapped without a problem, but, since when is an exposed sleeve nothing to worry about? Mar 25, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
Grant- We inspected this anchor once we found out about this- and I'm having trouble believing the bolt actually moved at all- the bolt is SOLID and NOT MOVING at all- it looks like the bolt hole was drilled at a slightly incorrect angle, leaving a small part of the sleeve exposed, but the bolt itself is FINE and PERFECTLY SAFE for use.

If future parties find that this bolt is moving or otherwise insecure, please let me know and I'll go back out and re-inspect, but in my opinion, the bolt is perfectly safe for use in an anchor. Both myself and my partner have extensive bolting experience and neither of us believe that the bolt is compromised in any way. Mar 23, 2010
As my buddy rapped off of this route the left bolt that forms the two bolt anchor at the top pulled out a good deal exposing the back of the hanger and the sheath surrounding the bolt. If you want you can lead the pitch clip the right bolt as a directional and set a trad anchor on the large ledge to the left, bring up your second and rap off a chockstone located down a gully from the ledge. Mar 19, 2010
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8
Always looks like it's about to become 5.9 but it never really does. Fun, with solid holds all the way up. Feb 14, 2010
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
Lovely route. Has a distinct 'basalt' feel to it. But this would be rated 5.8- (or maybe even 5.7+) at Paradise Forks! Jan 21, 2010
PDF
 
PDF  
 
FUN STUFF Feb 21, 2009
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.8+
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.8+
Good route with good pro. Very nice! Feb 14, 2007
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
This is one of the most enjoyable pitches I've done at RR. You wish it would keep going and going... Apr 3, 2006
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
  5.9
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
  5.9
I think this is one of the single best pitches in the area. A little bit of everything... Mar 10, 2004