Avg: 1.1 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Karl and Heidi Wilcox (1999)|
|Page Views:||1,188 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||karl g wilcox on Apr 28, 2006|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
Description"Valore" is just to the right of the start of Birdland. Begin in the grotto below the Birdland and Bighorn starting point.
Pitch one climbs out of the grotto, traverses somewhat right on a ledge and then moves up the right-hand side of the face (adequate protection available) some 30 feet to a protection bolt. From the first bolt, continue up to a second bolt another 30 feet up and then bear slightly left to a short crack that ends the pitch at a good-sized ledge and solid belay/rap bolts. This pitch, although only 5.7, requires some care in placing pro. It's also hard to see the bolts from the ground.
Pitch two climbs the obvious and rather steep crack system directly above the belay. This pitch protects well. The crux is a technical bulge which rates at easy 5.8. Pitch two ends at a bolted belay/rap station just to the right of an off-width crack and just above a large ledge. Rappel the route using two ropes.
LocationIf you follow the marked trail that heads up to Birdland you will end up beneath the large boulder and in the grotto where Valore begins. Valore's second pitch really is worth doing.
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