Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches
FA: Karl and Heidi Wilcox (1999)
Page Views: 1,726 total · 9/month
Shared By: karl g wilcox on Apr 28, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

"Valore" is just to the right of the start of Birdland. Begin in the grotto below the Birdland and Bighorn starting point.

Pitch one climbs out of the grotto, traverses somewhat right on a ledge and then moves up the right-hand side of the face (adequate protection available) some 30 feet to a protection bolt. From the first bolt, continue up to a second bolt another 30 feet up and then bear slightly left to a short crack that ends the pitch at a good-sized ledge and solid belay/rap bolts. This pitch, although only 5.7, requires some care in placing pro. It's also hard to see the bolts from the ground.

Pitch two climbs the obvious and rather steep crack system directly above the belay. This pitch protects well. The crux is a technical bulge which rates at easy 5.8. Pitch two ends at a bolted belay/rap station just to the right of an off-width crack and just above a large ledge. Rappel the route using two ropes.

Location

If you follow the marked trail that heads up to Birdland you will end up beneath the large boulder and in the grotto where Valore begins. Valore's second pitch really is worth doing.

Protection

Standard Rack up to 3 inches including a full range of small-to-medium-sized stoppers. Also take at least two 0.5 TCUs or cams. Smaller Aliens may also be useful.

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