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Routes in Brass Wall

Alternative Facts T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arachnoworld T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Big Horn, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bird Cage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Birdland T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Hole, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brass Balls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bus Stops Here T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bush Pilots T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Chocolate Covered Bacon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cut Away T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Fungus folks T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Go Greyhound T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Heavy Spider Karma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hidden Persuaders, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
LojVegas T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mushroom People T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mystery Mushroom? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
No Laughing Matter T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nowhere Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Stop in Tonopah T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pazookieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Psycho Date T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rawlpindi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ripcord T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Sea of Holes T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Serious Business T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Simpatico T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sky Dive T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Sniveler T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spectrum T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tinkerbellfusse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Topless Twins T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valore T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varnishing Point T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zen and the Art of Web Spinning T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Karl and Heidi Wilcox (1999)
Page Views: 1,148 total, 8/month
Shared By: karl g wilcox on Apr 28, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

"Valore" is just to the right of the start of Birdland. Begin in the grotto below the Birdland and Bighorn starting point.

Pitch one climbs out of the grotto, traverses somewhat right on a ledge and then moves up the right-hand side of the face (adequate protection available) some 30 feet to a protection bolt. From the first bolt, continue up to a second bolt another 30 feet up and then bear slightly left to a short crack that ends the pitch at a good-sized ledge and solid belay/rap bolts. This pitch, although only 5.7, requires some care in placing pro. It's also hard to see the bolts from the ground.

Pitch two climbs the obvious and rather steep crack system directly above the belay. This pitch protects well. The crux is a technical bulge which rates at easy 5.8. Pitch two ends at a bolted belay/rap station just to the right of an off-width crack and just above a large ledge. Rappel the route using two ropes.

Location

If you follow the marked trail that heads up to Birdland you will end up beneath the large boulder and in the grotto where Valore begins. Valore's second pitch really is worth doing.

Protection

Standard Rack up to 3 inches including a full range of small-to-medium-sized stoppers. Also take at least two 0.5 TCUs or cams. Smaller Aliens may also be useful.

Photos

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PDF
  5.10a R
PDF  
  5.10a R
Accidentally did this route, we where looking for a 10d near bye and got on the wrong route. OOPS

This is a death trap with tons of loose rock.

I am VERY solid at the grade and was not enjoying myself. The biggest crux is figuring out which holds can handle body weight and which holds can not(most of them).

Gear is tricky.


SUB NOTE:
the second pitch has potential if time was taken to clean the route. I felt it was harder than 5.8, but I was being very careful not to pull on anything that would take out my belayer. Feb 21, 2009
Greg Barnes
  5.8 R
Greg Barnes  
  5.8 R
First pitch is like a bunch of dinner plates glued to the wall, with poor pro (mostly between plates that were suspect). Runout. Not recommended even for very experienced Red Rocks locals. The bolts were off the logical line of the route, and easy to miss. This route may well see an accident if moderate trad leaders start doing it when Birdland is crowded (Handren has a description).

However, the second pitch is pretty cool, neat position, good moves, and steep. Still quite hollow and loose though. If I were to do this route again, I'd climb the first pitch of Birdland, then traverse right 30' from the Birdland anchor (a 5th class ledge) to the (hidden) Valore anchor, then climb the second pitch.

We broke off around 20 holds on the way down just to keep the rope from getting stuck. If more people kick off the junk, this could turn into a fun route. Apr 8, 2008