Type: Trad, 20 ft (6 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,113 total · 10/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Mar 26, 2007
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

3 Opinions
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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A tight squeeze chimney with perfect #1 camalot hand jams in the back. Perfectly smooth black varnished walls make up its two sides.

I would say the crux is being skinny enough to squeeze through it. Upward movement is hard earned in small bites. Although short in length, not short on time required to inch your way up. A good route to run laps on if you want squeeze chimney practice.

As an aside. While climbing it, I started to hear congo drums. I figured it was my heart pounding in my ears, so I took a rest. After listening, it was actually the sound of my heart echoing off the chimney wall. Kinda spooky.

Location Suggest change

The squeeze chimney just below and right of the Birdland staging area. A 30 second scramble into a cave from the Birdland belay. Finish at the birdland belay.

Protection Suggest change

Solo may be your best bet so as to fit. You get pretty wedged in so falling is not likely, but possible. Could TR from gear at the Birdland staging area. Could lead on probably #1 camalots but you would probably cluster yourself out of the send.