Type: Trad, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,006 total · 7/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Mar 26, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

A tight squeeze chimney with perfect #1 camalot hand jams in the back. Perfectly smooth black varnished walls make up its two sides.

I would say the crux is being skinny enough to squeeze through it. Upward movement is hard earned in small bites. Although short in length, not short on time required to inch your way up. A good route to run laps on if you want squeeze chimney practice.

As an aside. While climbing it, I started to hear congo drums. I figured it was my heart pounding in my ears, so I took a rest. After listening, it was actually the sound of my heart echoing off the chimney wall. Kinda spooky.

Location

The squeeze chimney just below and right of the Birdland staging area. A 30 second scramble into a cave from the Birdland belay. Finish at the birdland belay.

Protection

Solo may be your best bet so as to fit. You get pretty wedged in so falling is not likely, but possible. Could TR from gear at the Birdland staging area. Could lead on probably #1 camalots but you would probably cluster yourself out of the send.

Photos

Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
There are thousands of FA's out here at Red Rocks. I might suggest that you use the FRA (first recorded ascent) in cases such as this. Your climb looks like nice rock in a popular area. I don't want to burst your bubble but that is not usually a good combination but you never know. Anyhow looks like a fun little climb. Mar 26, 2007
Francis Baker (fran)
Las Vegas,NV
 
Francis Baker (fran)   Las Vegas,NV
 
You are not the first to do this. i have soloed down and up it to retrieve dropped gear. Mar 26, 2007
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
  5.10a
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
  5.10a
Kind of figured as much (hence the maybe and question marks regaurding FA status). Since it was in no guidebook and no chalk on the climb, who'se to know how many people have been up something. The FA claim has been removed. Mar 27, 2007