Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: FRA: Larry DeAngelo, George Wilson
Page Views: 1,445 total · 12/month
Shared By: George Wilson on Feb 12, 2011
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This route is just as good as Birdland...Minus the bolts!

1. Start on a boulder making a move or two up to a horizontal. Trend left following holds to another horizontal. Trend back right on a blank face(crux)toward a crack/corner and up to a belay ledge. Careful placing pro low as rope drag becomes an issue. This is a heady pitch!

2. Move belay under the corner. Climb the corner and traverse right about 50' and set a belay.

3. Climb the hand crack. Set a belay about 40' above its top.

4. Zig left from the belay then back right. Set a belay below the varnish. This is a short pitch.

5. Climb the beautiful face! Set a belay near the top of varnish.

6. Head up the varnish until the angle eases into a large ramp. Set a belay near the top of the ramp.

Location

Approach as per birdland. From the bottom of birdland scramble up and west until you come to a tunnel. At the back of the tunnel, boulder up and head west again until you get to a large chasm with a black varnished wall. Boulder up to the start.

Getting Down. Head east toward a small notch passing some old pitons along the way. Rappel off slung boulders (original bighorn descent) until you can join the birdland rappels.

Protection

Standard rack...C3's were necessary for the first pitch, dolts and a #8 titon for the pitches above! We climbed the route on double 50's, a 70m single would work for the rappels.

Photos