Type: Trad, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: FRA: Larry DeAngelo, George Wilson
Page Views: 1,142 total · 12/month
Shared By: George Wilson on Feb 12, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


This route is just as good as Birdland...Minus the bolts!

1. Start on a boulder making a move or two up to a horizontal. Trend left following holds to another horizontal. Trend back right on a blank face(crux)toward a crack/corner and up to a belay ledge. Careful placing pro low as rope drag becomes an issue. This is a heady pitch!

2. Move belay under the corner. Climb the corner and traverse right about 50' and set a belay.

3. Climb the hand crack. Set a belay about 40' above its top.

4. Zig left from the belay then back right. Set a belay below the varnish. This is a short pitch.

5. Climb the beautiful face! Set a belay near the top of varnish.

6. Head up the varnish until the angle eases into a large ramp. Set a belay near the top of the ramp.


Approach as per birdland. From the bottom of birdland scramble up and west until you come to a tunnel. At the back of the tunnel, boulder up and head west again until you get to a large chasm with a black varnished wall. Boulder up to the start.

Getting Down. Head east toward a small notch passing some old pitons along the way. Rappel off slung boulders (original bighorn descent) until you can join the birdland rappels.


Standard rack...C3's were necessary for the first pitch, dolts and a #8 titon for the pitches above! We climbed the route on double 50's, a 70m single would work for the rappels.
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9 R
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9 R
While I enjoyed climbing this route, I really do not think it is the quality of Birdland, (which I think is among the best routes in the park for good rock and classic climbing). We did the first pitch as described but looking at the photo posted here we were a bit further left - started off the boulder, climbed up past 3 horizontals gradually moving from left to right. The final horizontal was full of dirt and crumbling but we just climbed straight over it until standing above the final section of brown varnish then carefully stepped right into the crack. The crumbling rock distracted from this pitches quality - probably R rated just due to the questionable gear. The second pitch is pretty wide at the start but goes easier than you think - about 5.8 on bullet proof rock. We linked the next 4 pitches into 2 pairs - 5.7 160 feet, 5.5 200 feet - making the entire route 4 pitches. A nice outing on sunny rock on a cold day. Jan 29, 2012
Ben Townsend  
I don't think Birdland is a useful comparison for this route, which is full-on adventure climbing. There's some nice moderate varnished slab up high, but the price of admission is steep.

Approach: Either some very exposed traversing up high, or a brushy gully down low, to get to the tunnel. We roped up for a short, pretty easy pitch to get up to the actual starting belay. Anchor options aren't great here, but we managed a thread.

The real first pitch is quite serious. I was tempted to stay left on the arete and traverse into the chimney high, but breaking off a big varnished hold disabused me of that notion. A yellow C3 is critical for the traverse; take the time to get it to set solidly.

Moving the belay to the base of the second pitch corner is non-trivial and involves exposed downclimbing; the second may appreciate some gear along the way.

The big second pitch corner is great but starts with 15-20' of knee-grinding chimney. Watch out for breakable varnish holds (in my case, one about the size of my head) on the easy ground near the top of this pitch.

We did the third pitch as described, then linked the fourth and fifth (placing no gear on the fourth, which zigzags left and then back right, but which is very easy).

It's pretty obvious when you arrive at the (brushy) ledge system that leads east to the notch. The rappels work fine with one 70m rope -- watch the ends, as the second rap requires a short (easy) downclimb to the next anchor. We freshened up a couple of the stations with new cord and rings. Nov 17, 2015