The Hidden Persuaders
Avg: 2 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||FRA: Larry DeAngelo, George Wilson|
|Page Views:||1,062 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||George Wilson on Feb 12, 2011|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis route is just as good as Birdland...Minus the bolts!
1. Start on a boulder making a move or two up to a horizontal. Trend left following holds to another horizontal. Trend back right on a blank face(crux)toward a crack/corner and up to a belay ledge. Careful placing pro low as rope drag becomes an issue. This is a heady pitch!
2. Move belay under the corner. Climb the corner and traverse right about 50' and set a belay.
3. Climb the hand crack. Set a belay about 40' above its top.
4. Zig left from the belay then back right. Set a belay below the varnish. This is a short pitch.
5. Climb the beautiful face! Set a belay near the top of varnish.
6. Head up the varnish until the angle eases into a large ramp. Set a belay near the top of the ramp.
LocationApproach as per birdland. From the bottom of birdland scramble up and west until you come to a tunnel. At the back of the tunnel, boulder up and head west again until you get to a large chasm with a black varnished wall. Boulder up to the start.
Getting Down. Head east toward a small notch passing some old pitons along the way. Rappel off slung boulders (original bighorn descent) until you can join the birdland rappels.