Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Jay Smith and Nick Nordblom, 1989 |
Page Views: | 1,698 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Josh Janes on Jan 24, 2012 · Updates |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Ripcord is a four-pitch adventure climb up the left side of the Brass Wall. The route connects two prominent features (the arĂȘte of the first pitch and the corner of the last pitch) with two pitches of difficult, spicy face climbing up less-than-perfect rock.
P1: Begin by pulling a bolt-protected v4 boulder problem to access the striking, featured arĂȘte. Easy climbing up this leads to a bolted anchor that is in need of work. Apparently a couple years ago a climber fell on the first moves of this pitch after placing a cam and the force of the fall caused a huge part of this corner to shear off. I don't know what it was like before, but it is still climbable and protectable.
P2: A wandering 5.10 pitch up junky rock leads to an exposed belay.
P3: Very difficult face climbing (5.11+) up crumbling holds (terrifying, but objectively pretty safe) leads to another exposed belay.
P4: Climb the nice, but slightly sandy, left-facing corner through a steep bit and some easy 5.11 to a mass of webbing and stoppers which serves as the anchor. A bolted anchor here might be a nice addition. Rap with two ropes.
P1: Begin by pulling a bolt-protected v4 boulder problem to access the striking, featured arĂȘte. Easy climbing up this leads to a bolted anchor that is in need of work. Apparently a couple years ago a climber fell on the first moves of this pitch after placing a cam and the force of the fall caused a huge part of this corner to shear off. I don't know what it was like before, but it is still climbable and protectable.
P2: A wandering 5.10 pitch up junky rock leads to an exposed belay.
P3: Very difficult face climbing (5.11+) up crumbling holds (terrifying, but objectively pretty safe) leads to another exposed belay.
P4: Climb the nice, but slightly sandy, left-facing corner through a steep bit and some easy 5.11 to a mass of webbing and stoppers which serves as the anchor. A bolted anchor here might be a nice addition. Rap with two ropes.
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