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Routes in Magic Mountain

Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bro's Before Holes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Cornhole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate flakes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark and Long T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Edge of the Sun T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Texas Longneck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: van betten, 85
Page Views: 1,167 total, 15/month
Shared By: Jon O'Brien on Apr 24, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

1. somewhat dirty, awkward 5.8 corner w spaced gear to ledge w bolted anchor. apprx. 100 ' (we used 2 ropes to rap just to be sure)

2. move up and to left to hidden chocolate face, climb flake to roof w wide crack then stay in the feature for a long time to a ledge bolted anchor. apprx. 200' 5.9 (cool pitch)

3. steep jugs to pure crack in corner w fluid, beautiful movement 90' bolted belay. 5.10d

4. work up into exposed layback, follow to offwidth and interesting move off a horizontal before it eases off and a bolted anchor. 5.10a.

last 3 pitches were fantastic!

Location

from pine creek walk the trail. make left after old homestead and cross wash. follow up to trail that traverses magic mtns base and go right. continue until under a notch in the mtn, aim for that. we rapped the 3rd and 4th pitch w/ 1 rope and the 1st and 2nd w/ two ropes. (60 meters) the climb shares the first two pitches of cartwright corner.

Protection

double to 3''. (i would have placed a 5'' on the 4th pitch and been happy)

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earl mcalister
Las Vegas, NV
 
earl mcalister   Las Vegas, NV
 
Chocolate Flakes as well as the first 2 pitches of Cartwright Corner can be rappelled with a singe 70 m rope. Someone added new anchors making this possible. I would recommend 1 rope as using 2 increases the chance of a stuck rope during the Cartwright Corner raps. Nov 3, 2016
Nicholas Gillman
Las Vegas
Nicholas Gillman   Las Vegas
As of April 2014 the anchors have been replaced with 1/2" stainless steel hardware. Mar 5, 2016
Michael Kimm
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10+
Michael Kimm   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10+
I took a single rack to 3", doubles of .75 and 1 Camalots, full set of nuts and my C3s. Was happy to have all of it, but you won't need anything bigger than that. I think we only placed the #3 once, on pitch 2.
The bottom two anchors could use some love: From what I remember the top of the first pitch the nuts, bolt ends, and chains are all rusty. One newer bolt and hanger, one older 3/8" with a homemade hanger. Second pitch are two completely rusted homemade hangers on bolts probably 20+ years old backed up by a good nut.
Upper two pitches look pretty good. Jan 21, 2014
What'd you think as far as gear? Worth bringing big stuff? If Jon was wishing for it, I bet us small frys will be double puckered. How's the fixed anchor condition? Jan 21, 2014
Michael Kimm
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10+
Michael Kimm   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10+
Cartwright pitches aren't the most horrid climbing ever, but they're below average in their own right. The first pitch of Chocolate Flakes? Stellar. Really great moves on bomber stone and quality gear. Similar feel as pitch 4 of Nightcrawler. Pitch four has a very interesting section around an offwidth/squeeze and is a heady lead. If only you could do the route without the damn approach pitches... Jan 20, 2014