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Routes in Magic Mountain

Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bro's Before Holes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Cornhole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate flakes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark and Long T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Edge of the Sun T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Texas Longneck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Joe Herbst & Mark Moore
Page Views: 4,973 total, 33/month
Shared By: John Wilder on May 26, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This neat little route is one of the few Joe Herbst routes you'll find that can be classified as a finger crack. It can be found on the south side of Pine Creek Canyon (the shady side!), about 100 yards to the right of Community Pillar and about 100' left of the start of Magic Triangle.

The route ascends a right facing dihedral that steadily gets steeper as it gets higher. Just left of the route is the bolted arete of Five and Dime.

Start climbing at the base of the corner, under some ledges. Work your way up and ascend the corner. Be careful of the loose block near the top.

A single rope rappel gets you back down.

Protection

Bring a fair assortment of stoppers and doubles of smallish stuff to a #.75 camalot. Single cams to 3" is good, a 4" wont hurt you, but is not required.

Photos

Jon O'Brien
Nevada
  5.10a
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
  5.10a
Thank you! One of the best pitches in the park! I had the pleasure of doing this one after your renovations; Thanks again for the anchor :-) Apr 23, 2009
Greg Barnes
  5.10b
Greg Barnes  
  5.10b
Julie Haas & I replaced the anchor last week. Two old 3/8" bolts up high were connected to a 1/4" bolt down low, and right of the 1/4" bolt was a 1/2" deep 3/8" hole with lichen growing in it. I removed the 1/4" bolt, redrilled the hole, then continued the old 3/8" hole, for a 2-new-bolt anchor. For the old 3/8" bolts, the right one broke easily, and I just removed the hanger on the other one, which is a relatively new 3/8" split-shaft compression bolt. These will not break and must be pulled or hacksawed, and I didn't have the appropriate gear for either, so it's still there without a hanger. Apr 23, 2007