Avg: 3.3 from 44 votes
Routes in Magic Mountain
|Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Birthday Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Bro's Before Holes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Chocolate Cornhole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Chocolate flakes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Dark and Long T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Edge of the Sun T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Texas Longneck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||Joe Herbst & Mark Moore|
|Page Views:||4,973 total, 33/month|
|Shared By:||John Wilder on May 26, 2005|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis neat little route is one of the few Joe Herbst routes you'll find that can be classified as a finger crack. It can be found on the south side of Pine Creek Canyon (the shady side!), about 100 yards to the right of Community Pillar and about 100' left of the start of Magic Triangle.
The route ascends a right facing dihedral that steadily gets steeper as it gets higher. Just left of the route is the bolted arete of Five and Dime.
Start climbing at the base of the corner, under some ledges. Work your way up and ascend the corner. Be careful of the loose block near the top.
A single rope rappel gets you back down.