Avg: 2.7 from 30 votes
Routes in Magic Mountain
|Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Birthday Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Bro's Before Holes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Chocolate Cornhole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Chocolate flakes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Dark and Long T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Edge of the Sun T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Texas Longneck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||FRA Jim Trogdon, John Campbell, Larry DeAngelo|
|Page Views:||4,310 total, 27/month|
|Shared By:||Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis surprisingly good route goes up the left edge of the Community Pillar. The left margin of this prominent central feature on the north face of Magic Mountain is a dark chimney halfway up. This is the Honeycomb Chimney and is the main landmark of this route. Start at the far left side of the broad base of the buttress.
Pitch 1: A short pitch leads through some fragile rock and a chimney to a good belay ledge beneath a dark offwidth crack.
Pitch 2: Start up the wide crack, but exit right onto easy face climbing up solid varnished potholes. Move back to the crack and pull over a small bulge (5.7) to an easy chimney. (If you don't have a 60-meter rope, you should probably belay at the bulge.)
Pitch 3: Class 3 climbing leads up the broken gully to the base of a huge dark chimney.
Pitch 4: High quality climbing on the varnished honeycomb takes you to the top of the chimney. (5.7)
Pich 5: Climb up and slightly left to the constricted slot above you. A bit of fiddling with large cams in pockets gives some amount of protection for the squeeze moves (5.8) through the slot. Continue up and left on easy rock, belaying just above a small tunnel.
Pitch 6: Class 4 scrambling leads left and a little down for about 100 feet across a broken ledge system.
Pitch 7: Climb the spectacular corner (5.9) to a large ledge.
At this point you can descend by walking right (west) and joining the standard Community Pillar descent where it rappels from the pine tree. Alternatively, you can climb another pitch:
Pitch 8: Scramble up for 50 feet (class 3) over loose rock to the base of a small but clean corner. Go straight up the crack (5.7) and through the chimney in the giant split boulder to a belay on the summit ridge.
The descent from here does not involve any rappels, but it is not trivial (and probably not recommended in the darkness). Turn left (east), and work along the right (southern) side of the ridge, following a path of least resistance through the rocks and brush. Work your way up until almost at the true summit of Magic Mountain (a summit cairn is visible), then descend to the south. Hug the cliff face on your left until you finally emerge at the small saddle where the normal descent from Olive Oil starts. Follow the Olive Oil descent down the gully to the east until reaching the trail.