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Routes in Magic Mountain

Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bro's Before Holes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Cornhole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate flakes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark and Long T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Edge of the Sun T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Texas Longneck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Harrison, Nordblom, Van Betten, Broussard 1985.
Page Views: 1,027 total, 8/month
Shared By: Clint Locks on Nov 23, 2006 with updates
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Begin in a recess below Chocolate Flakes.
P1-Climb a shallow corner up (.8) until you reach a big, sloping ledge with bushes. Go another 15 feet up and belay. Move that belay around the corner 30 feet to climber's left. The 2nd pitch begins there.
P2-Climb the corner into a wide crack (.9) to a ledge and belay out right (below an overhanging off-width which is NOT on route).
P3-Move left back into the crack system. Place gear left in the crack and face climb a bit, soon moving into the corner, up to a ledge, through an intimidating but beautiful off-width (.8). Exit that, and up a short wall to belay at climber's right of the sloping ramp. (NOTE: notice the 2 bolt anchor for Chocolate Flakes down and right).
P4-The Money Pitch. Move the belay to the left side of the ramp (or don't) and begin the memorable stemming corner (10b) with sustained and interesting moves with good enough protection, including one bolt. There are a few flakes of questionable quality on this pitch. Be gentle. Belay in a corner at a semi-hanging stance. One can rap with 2 ropes from here, or continue...
P5-Out right and negotiate a wide crack (10a?) for 10 feet and move left into a gully. Short pitch--60 feet or so.
P6-Continue left in the gully and join the final pitch of Community Pillar (recommended), then scramble the remaining 400 feet to the top.

See descent for Community Pillar and Magic Mountain. It's a bit complicated if it's your first time up there.

Photos

Rob DeZonia
  5.10
Rob DeZonia  
  5.10
I liked this route. The crux for me was climbing a run out chimney to a roof that had to be pulled. No harder than 5.10. The old guide book did give a horrible description. If I remember, there was a lot more wide stuff than I had expected. Old school exciting and satisfying. I hear Chocolate Flakes is a better option if you're in this gully. Sep 4, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
 
The only route I bailed off of in Red Rock and will never return to complete. Its a total thrash to get to the main event, which ends up being way spookier than you think it would be. I can't imagine leading the upper part of this route-- overhanging offwidths? In what world is that 5.10?

That said, Chocolate Flakes off right looks pretty sweet....too bad the approach pitches make it a less than appealing climb. Aug 19, 2007
The guide broke one ankle when he fell leading. The combination of bad rock and gear placements in bad rock didn't help his predicament. It sounds like his fall was due to pulling off a hold at a sketchy spot.

The guide was slated to take his $1500 rock guide's exam the following day. I don't know if he got a refund or a credit. But I do know that he wasn't a happy camper...

Jason Apr 10, 2007
notmyname
Sandy, UT
 
notmyname   Sandy, UT
 
Both Swain's and Brock's topos for this route are awful. it is not a long continuous corner. There is much scwacking and scrambling between pitches, and the routefinding (esp pitch 4) is challenging. Definitely not 5 stars and I'm pretty sure Roxanna hasn't climbed it. Glad I didn't buy her book!

The way I went on the 4th pitch was a thin corner with some airy barndoor moves and 1 bolt 1/2 way up. I didn't see any 4th class exit, just a 8" overhanging offwidth...so we bailed w/one rope and it made it. Don't trust any anchor bolts on this climb. An AMGA guide broke both ankles on this route. Apr 9, 2007