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Cartwright Corner
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1.4 from 10
votes
Routes in North Face
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Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Andy & Jason's Mediocre Adventure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Birthday Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chocolate Flakes T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Community Party Chimney T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dark and Long T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Edge of the Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fido the Dragon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Midnight Oil T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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North Face | 9066 T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Texas Longneck T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 36.12126, -115.49023 |
| FA: | Harrison, Nordblom, Van Betten, Broussard 1985. |
| Page Views: | 2,262 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Clint Locks on Nov 23, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
Begin in a recess below Chocolate Flakes.
P1-Climb a shallow corner up (.8) until you reach a big, sloping ledge with bushes. Go another 15 feet up and belay. Move that belay around the corner 30 feet to climber's left. The 2nd pitch begins there.
P2-Climb the corner into a wide crack (.9) to a ledge and belay out right (below an overhanging off-width which is NOT on route).
P3-Move left back into the crack system. Place gear left in the crack and face climb a bit, soon moving into the corner, up to a ledge, through an intimidating but beautiful off-width (.8). Exit that, and up a short wall to belay at climber's right of the sloping ramp. (NOTE: notice the 2 bolt anchor for Chocolate Flakes down and right).
P4-The Money Pitch. Move the belay to the left side of the ramp (or don't) and begin the memorable stemming corner (10b) with sustained and interesting moves with good enough protection, including one bolt. There are a few flakes of questionable quality on this pitch. Be gentle. Belay in a corner at a semi-hanging stance. One can rap with 2 ropes from here, or continue...
P5-Out right and negotiate a wide crack (10a?) for 10 feet and move left into a gully. Short pitch--60 feet or so.
P6-Continue left in the gully and join the final pitch of Community Pillar (recommended), then scramble the remaining 400 feet to the top.
See descent for Community Pillar and Magic Mountain. It's a bit complicated if it's your first time up there.
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