Avg: 1.5 from 6 votes
Routes in Magic Mountain
|Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Birthday Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Bro's Before Holes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Chocolate Cornhole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Chocolate flakes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Dark and Long T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Edge of the Sun T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Texas Longneck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Harrison, Nordblom, Van Betten, Broussard 1985.|
|Page Views:||1,027 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||Clint Locks on Nov 23, 2006|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionBegin in a recess below Chocolate Flakes.
P1-Climb a shallow corner up (.8) until you reach a big, sloping ledge with bushes. Go another 15 feet up and belay. Move that belay around the corner 30 feet to climber's left. The 2nd pitch begins there.
P2-Climb the corner into a wide crack (.9) to a ledge and belay out right (below an overhanging off-width which is NOT on route).
P3-Move left back into the crack system. Place gear left in the crack and face climb a bit, soon moving into the corner, up to a ledge, through an intimidating but beautiful off-width (.8). Exit that, and up a short wall to belay at climber's right of the sloping ramp. (NOTE: notice the 2 bolt anchor for Chocolate Flakes down and right).
P4-The Money Pitch. Move the belay to the left side of the ramp (or don't) and begin the memorable stemming corner (10b) with sustained and interesting moves with good enough protection, including one bolt. There are a few flakes of questionable quality on this pitch. Be gentle. Belay in a corner at a semi-hanging stance. One can rap with 2 ropes from here, or continue...
P5-Out right and negotiate a wide crack (10a?) for 10 feet and move left into a gully. Short pitch--60 feet or so.
P6-Continue left in the gully and join the final pitch of Community Pillar (recommended), then scramble the remaining 400 feet to the top.
See descent for Community Pillar and Magic Mountain. It's a bit complicated if it's your first time up there.