Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dave Wonderly & Warren Egbert 1988
Page Views: 1,715 total · 10/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This route climbs the small face just to the right of Five Pack. Pitch 1: climb the arete and adjacent face to a good belay ledge. Pitch 2: go straight up the face with a few protection bolts and some gear placements to a bolted belay station near a big overhang. Pitch 3: climb left and up past protection bolts to a ledge beneath the final headwall. Climb straight up to a belay station at the top.

Rappel the route. Be careful of rope snags on the numerous flakes and horns. Alternatively, continue to the top of the Magic Triangle formation.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
Can you rappel this route with a single 60 meter rope or do you need two ropes? Sep 17, 2005
Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c
Larry DeAngelo   Las Vegas, NV  
  5.10c
Rappel needs two ropes. Be careful of the 64,389 snaggy little flakes and horns on the face below and to the right. Sep 18, 2005
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
Has anyone attempted to link the first two pitches together with a 60M rope? Oct 17, 2007
meo
meo  
The 3rd pitch is one of the best I've done. The dean said it was one of the best pitches he's ever done.
Great face climbing with equally great exposure. The first pitch wanders a bit. I would not try and combine the 1st and 2nd. Oct 21, 2007
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b/c PG13
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10b/c PG13
The first two pitches are approach pitches for the third which is the interesting and fun climbing. Pitch 2 is a bit run out. To rappel and avoid rope snag - rap down to bottom of 3rd pitch, then over the lip straight into the canyon where you will find another rap point and won't hang up ropes (steep and clean). Feb 21, 2010
So where does this actually start? A friend and I went to the base of this thing and there are three or four options around the right side of the arĂȘte, none of which look good. There is also an easy looking crack on the left side of the arĂȘte, but that doesn't seem to be on route according to Handren. Any help? May 10, 2014
This route raps with an 80m. May 23, 2017
This route has new anchors and chain, meaning if you rap the route you will be safe. If you rap over the side on from P2 to the alternative rap anchor, you will still have to use the tat and older bolts. Jul 5, 2017
wes calkins  
 
The route starts on the left side of the arete at an easy crack, then continues to the right at an obvious spot about 40 feet up to a chocolate groove on the arete. all 3 pitches have different but good climbing. Protection bolts should be considered for replacement since the bolts that are there appear to have been hand drilled on lead and some have the stud of the bolt sticking out 2 inches and some are just plainly drilled crooked. All anchor bolts are of good quality and are reliable. Can rap the route with an 80m rope, a 70 will not work without shenanigans. A single rack from tcu to #3BD and half set of stoppers focused on middle sizes will suffice. Oct 6, 2018