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Routes in Magic Mountain

Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bro's Before Holes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Cornhole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate flakes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark and Long T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Edge of the Sun T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Texas Longneck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dave Wonderly & Warren Egbert 1988
Page Views: 1,583 total, 10/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route climbs the small face just to the right of Five Pack. Pitch 1: climb the arete and adjacent face to a good belay ledge. Pitch 2: go straight up the face with a few protection bolts and some gear placements to a bolted belay station near a big overhang. Pitch 3: climb left and up past protection bolts to a ledge beneath the final headwall. Climb straight up to a belay station at the top.

Rappel the route. Be careful of rope snags on the numerous flakes and horns. Alternatively, continue to the top of the Magic Triangle formation.

Protection

Standard rack
This route has new anchors and chain, meaning if you rap the route you will be safe. If you rap over the side on from P2 to the alternative rap anchor, you will still have to use the tat and older bolts. Jul 5, 2017
This route raps with an 80m. May 23, 2017
So where does this actually start? A friend and I went to the base of this thing and there are three or four options around the right side of the arĂȘte, none of which look good. There is also an easy looking crack on the left side of the arĂȘte, but that doesn't seem to be on route according to Handren. Any help? May 10, 2014
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b/c PG13
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10b/c PG13
The first two pitches are approach pitches for the third which is the interesting and fun climbing. Pitch 2 is a bit run out. To rappel and avoid rope snag - rap down to bottom of 3rd pitch, then over the lip straight into the canyon where you will find another rap point and won't hang up ropes (steep and clean). Feb 21, 2010
meo
meo  
The 3rd pitch is one of the best I've done. The dean said it was one of the best pitches he's ever done.
Great face climbing with equally great exposure. The first pitch wanders a bit. I would not try and combine the 1st and 2nd. Oct 21, 2007
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
Has anyone attempted to link the first two pitches together with a 60M rope? Oct 17, 2007
Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c
Larry DeAngelo   Las Vegas, NV  
  5.10c
Rappel needs two ropes. Be careful of the 64,389 snaggy little flakes and horns on the face below and to the right. Sep 18, 2005
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
Can you rappel this route with a single 60 meter rope or do you need two ropes? Sep 17, 2005