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Routes in North Face
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[Redacted] T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Andy & Jason's Mediocre Adventure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Birthday Party T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chocolate Flakes T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Community Party Chimney T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dark and Long T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Edge of the Sun T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Midnight Oil T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Texas Longneck T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | FRA George Urioste, Larry DeAngelo |
| Page Views: | 2,854 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Start in a small, left-facing dihedral about 40 feet to the right of Five Pack.
Pitch 1) Climb the dihedral and belay on top of a pillar. Move the belay down and right to a good ledge for the next pitch.
Pitch 2) Climb the corner to some good ledges.
Pitch 3) Climb up, then right on face holds until you reach a crack that leads back to the left.
Pitch 4) Continue up the right-facing corner. Exit from the main dihedral system by climbing left on easy friction (this is at the point where Five Pack crosses from left to right into the main dihedral). Belay in a varnished crack at the base of a small knobby corner.
Pitch 5) Go straight up the corner past a bulge to a large white ledge.
Pitch 6) The FA party threaded a path through the overhangs above, but this involved difficult, reachy climbing (maybe 5.10) on unreliable rock with limited protection. A better option looked like climbing up 20 feet, then traversing left to easier terrain and the top.
Descend via Edge of the Sun, or continue to the top of the Magic Triangle formation.
Pitch 1) Climb the dihedral and belay on top of a pillar. Move the belay down and right to a good ledge for the next pitch.
Pitch 2) Climb the corner to some good ledges.
Pitch 3) Climb up, then right on face holds until you reach a crack that leads back to the left.
Pitch 4) Continue up the right-facing corner. Exit from the main dihedral system by climbing left on easy friction (this is at the point where Five Pack crosses from left to right into the main dihedral). Belay in a varnished crack at the base of a small knobby corner.
Pitch 5) Go straight up the corner past a bulge to a large white ledge.
Pitch 6) The FA party threaded a path through the overhangs above, but this involved difficult, reachy climbing (maybe 5.10) on unreliable rock with limited protection. A better option looked like climbing up 20 feet, then traversing left to easier terrain and the top.
Descend via Edge of the Sun, or continue to the top of the Magic Triangle formation.
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