Avg: 2 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||FRA George Urioste, Larry DeAngelo|
|Page Views:||1,449 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionStart in a small, left-facing dihedral about 40 feet to the right of Five Pack.
Pitch 1) Climb the dihedral and belay on top of a pillar. Move the belay down and right to a good ledge for the next pitch.
Pitch 2) Climb the corner to some good ledges.
Pitch 3) Climb up, then right on face holds until you reach a crack that leads back to the left.
Pitch 4) Continue up the right-facing corner. Exit from the main dihedral system by climbing left on easy friction (this is at the point where Five Pack crosses from left to right into the main dihedral). Belay in a varnished crack at the base of a small knobby corner.
Pitch 5) Go straight up the corner past a bulge to a large white ledge.
Pitch 6) The FA party threaded a path through the overhangs above, but this involved difficult, reachy climbing (maybe 5.10) on unreliable rock with limited protection. A better option looked like climbing up 20 feet, then traversing left to easier terrain and the top.
Descend via Edge of the Sun, or continue to the top of the Magic Triangle formation.