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Routes in Magic Mountain

Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bro's Before Holes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Cornhole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate flakes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark and Long T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Edge of the Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Texas Longneck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: FRA George Urioste, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 1,502 total · 9/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Start in a small, left-facing dihedral about 40 feet to the right of Five Pack.

Pitch 1) Climb the dihedral and belay on top of a pillar. Move the belay down and right to a good ledge for the next pitch.

Pitch 2) Climb the corner to some good ledges.

Pitch 3) Climb up, then right on face holds until you reach a crack that leads back to the left.

Pitch 4) Continue up the right-facing corner. Exit from the main dihedral system by climbing left on easy friction (this is at the point where Five Pack crosses from left to right into the main dihedral). Belay in a varnished crack at the base of a small knobby corner.

Pitch 5) Go straight up the corner past a bulge to a large white ledge.

Pitch 6) The FA party threaded a path through the overhangs above, but this involved difficult, reachy climbing (maybe 5.10) on unreliable rock with limited protection. A better option looked like climbing up 20 feet, then traversing left to easier terrain and the top.

Descend via Edge of the Sun, or continue to the top of the Magic Triangle formation.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

It seemed like we slung a lot of chickenheads and other features on this climb for protection. There were some sections of suspect rock on this route. The face climbing on p3 was a little scary for me (have good white rock skills). We started around 9AM and had shade on the bottom of the route, but we caught some sun on the upper sections. Sep 22, 2005

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