Type: Trad, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: FRA George Urioste, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 1,639 total · 10/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Start in a small, left-facing dihedral about 40 feet to the right of Five Pack.

Pitch 1) Climb the dihedral and belay on top of a pillar. Move the belay down and right to a good ledge for the next pitch.

Pitch 2) Climb the corner to some good ledges.

Pitch 3) Climb up, then right on face holds until you reach a crack that leads back to the left.

Pitch 4) Continue up the right-facing corner. Exit from the main dihedral system by climbing left on easy friction (this is at the point where Five Pack crosses from left to right into the main dihedral). Belay in a varnished crack at the base of a small knobby corner.

Pitch 5) Go straight up the corner past a bulge to a large white ledge.

Pitch 6) The FA party threaded a path through the overhangs above, but this involved difficult, reachy climbing (maybe 5.10) on unreliable rock with limited protection. A better option looked like climbing up 20 feet, then traversing left to easier terrain and the top.

Descend via Edge of the Sun, or continue to the top of the Magic Triangle formation.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

It seemed like we slung a lot of chickenheads and other features on this climb for protection. There were some sections of suspect rock on this route. The face climbing on p3 was a little scary for me (have good white rock skills). We started around 9AM and had shade on the bottom of the route, but we caught some sun on the upper sections. Sep 22, 2005
Rprops
North Las Vegas
  5.9
Rprops   North Las Vegas
  5.9
Great route. Hard to think of a harder "5.8" in the park I have done. I didn't like the traverse on Five Pack, and I don't like it on this route either, so I would consider this a quality and natural approach to the final corner on Five Pack.
P1. Stiff but safe corner climbing off the deck. Belay on the ledge, then move the belay down right.
P2. Climb up the chimney, belaying on the ledge slightly right (this is also the ledge belay for Edge of the Sun P1. Notice the bolts of P2 of that route on the right).
P3. Not sure if this was the path of least resistance, but climbed a crack/seam through varnish. Thin for the grade, finicky gear, excellent climbing. It is 200' to either the traversing ledge, or up through a short varnished chimney to a nice stance below the final Five Pack Corner.
P4. If you traversed, climb the steep crack, pull up onto the ledge with the soft white rock boulder, then pull up onto the top of that, (sandy). Climb 15' higher, then gingerly traverse left, slinging 1 or 2 chicken heads as you go around the corner. Careful where you step. Make your way all the way left into the gully, then run it out up the easy rock. Belay from the top of the gully.

Doubles to 1 and singles to 4 were nice for doing the long pitch 3. Not much rope drag on this climb, besides the long easy last pitch. Nov 9, 2018