Type: Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches
GPS: 36.12126, -115.49023
FA: FKA: Ian Lingley, Peter Adamson
Page Views: 568 total · 15/month
Shared By: Ian Lingley on Nov 10, 2022
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a new variation on the magic mountain North face that climbs 300 ft of new terrain while also climbing sections of existing routes. It's a very well protected climb that allows you to Summit with a few short 5.8 sections. 

Single rack to 5" or 6" depending on confidence. 

Pitch 1.

 Same start as community pillar. Navigate around the chockstone by choosing the right hole (tight), left hole (a bit bigger) or the 5.9 boulder problem on the left. Once you gain the ledge climb the left corner until it levels out to decent ledge. 5.8-

Pitch 2.

Climb off the ledge to the right to gain a crack feature, follow the crack until you can traverse on a horizontal finger crack to the left to join up with the 3rd pitch of Birthday Party. When possible move 10 feet left to belay on a ledge with a tree ( top of pitch 2 of honeycomb Chimney) 5.7

Pitch 3.

3rd class walking over a few boulders and past a couple trees to the base of an awesome looking chimney. 

Pitch 4.

Same as pitch 4 on Honeycomb Chimney. 

This pitch is fantastic climbing up the back of a super featured chimney. You could climb this pitch a few different ways all being around 5.6/5.7.

Pitch 5.

Same as pitch five on honeycomb chimney

Climb up and left  towards the squeeze chimney, after squeezing through the slot easier climbing leads up to a ledge to belay from. 5.8-

Pitch 6.

Climb up and right towards a tree. Once you gain the ledge you can squeeze up the right corner off width (#6 cam) or face climb around it. 5.7

The other option other than pitch 6 is to do pitch 6 and 7 of honeycomb chimney. 

This route finishes at the top of community pillar and has the same descent options. 

Location Suggest change

Same start as community pillar under the large chockstone. 

Protection Suggest change

Single rack to 6"

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