Community Party Chimney
5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British
| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches |
| GPS: | 36.12126, -115.49023 |
| FA: | FKA: Ian Lingley, Peter Adamson |
| Page Views: | 568 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Ian Lingley on Nov 10, 2022 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This is a new variation on the magic mountain North face that climbs 300 ft of new terrain while also climbing sections of existing routes. It's a very well protected climb that allows you to Summit with a few short 5.8 sections.
Single rack to 5" or 6" depending on confidence.
Pitch 1.
Same start as community pillar. Navigate around the chockstone by choosing the right hole (tight), left hole (a bit bigger) or the 5.9 boulder problem on the left. Once you gain the ledge climb the left corner until it levels out to decent ledge. 5.8-
Pitch 2.
Climb off the ledge to the right to gain a crack feature, follow the crack until you can traverse on a horizontal finger crack to the left to join up with the 3rd pitch of Birthday Party. When possible move 10 feet left to belay on a ledge with a tree ( top of pitch 2 of honeycomb Chimney) 5.7
Pitch 3.
3rd class walking over a few boulders and past a couple trees to the base of an awesome looking chimney.
Pitch 4.
Same as pitch 4 on Honeycomb Chimney.
This pitch is fantastic climbing up the back of a super featured chimney. You could climb this pitch a few different ways all being around 5.6/5.7.
Pitch 5.
Same as pitch five on honeycomb chimney
Climb up and left towards the squeeze chimney, after squeezing through the slot easier climbing leads up to a ledge to belay from. 5.8-
Pitch 6.
Climb up and right towards a tree. Once you gain the ledge you can squeeze up the right corner off width (#6 cam) or face climb around it. 5.7
The other option other than pitch 6 is to do pitch 6 and 7 of honeycomb chimney.
This route finishes at the top of community pillar and has the same descent options.



0 Comments