Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: FRA John Wilder, Kevin Campbell, George Urioste, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 1,196 total · 7/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin .

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This is a good route. Much of the climbing looks difficult, but turns out to be surprisingly moderate. The short crux, on the other hand, is harder than it looks. In fact the upper part of this route (p4-5) is easier and better protected than the standard Magic Triangle route.

Pitch 1: Start about 40 feet to the left (east) of Midnight Oil. Easy rock leads to a belay ledge on the right about 60 or 80 feet up.

Pitch 2: Make a few tricky moves (5.10) right off the ledge, then continue up the crack above. After a flared slot, belay on small but good ledges.

Pitch 3: Climb the steep corner on the right and belay on the large midway ledge of the formation.

Pitch 4: Go up and left on white rock, then move back right to the varnished crack. The climbing becomes easy when the rock gets dark. Belay in the obvious alcove.

Pitch 5: Continue up the wide crack. What looks like it is going to be a horrendous offwidth turns out to be moderate face climbing.

From the final belay ledge, descend by rappeling the gully below. Four rappels (with a 60-meter rope) and a little scrambling take you to the ground.

Protection

Std rack; we had a #6 Friend and used it a couple of times.

Photos

Rprops
North Las Vegas
 
Rprops   North Las Vegas
 
This climb is super enjoyable, but has the quirk of 1 hard move, right off the deck on the second pitch, followed by lots of enjoyable 5.9ish climbing. Put any gear in you can find for the move to keep off the ledge. That one 5.10 move is protecting a lot of enjoyable moderate climbing up above. Oct 21, 2016