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Routes in Magic Mountain

Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bro's Before Holes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Cornhole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate flakes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark and Long T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Edge of the Sun T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Texas Longneck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: FRA John Wilder, Kevin Campbell, George Urioste, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 1,124 total, 7/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is a good route. Much of the climbing looks difficult, but turns out to be surprisingly moderate. The short crux, on the other hand, is harder than it looks. In fact the upper part of this route (p4-5) is easier and better protected than the standard Magic Triangle route.

Pitch 1: Start about 40 feet to the left (east) of Midnight Oil. Easy rock leads to a belay ledge on the right about 60 or 80 feet up.

Pitch 2: Make a few tricky moves (5.10) right off the ledge, then continue up the crack above. After a flared slot, belay on small but good ledges.

Pitch 3: Climb the steep corner on the right and belay on the large midway ledge of the formation.

Pitch 4: Go up and left on white rock, then move back right to the varnished crack. The climbing becomes easy when the rock gets dark. Belay in the obvious alcove.

Pitch 5: Continue up the wide crack. What looks like it is going to be a horrendous offwidth turns out to be moderate face climbing.

From the final belay ledge, descend by rappeling the gully below. Four rappels (with a 60-meter rope) and a little scrambling take you to the ground.

Protection

Std rack; we had a #6 Friend and used it a couple of times.
Rprops
North Las Vegas
 
Rprops   North Las Vegas
 
This climb is super enjoyable, but has the quirk of 1 hard move, right off the deck on the second pitch, followed by lots of enjoyable 5.9ish climbing. Put any gear in you can find for the move to keep off the ledge. That one 5.10 move is protecting a lot of enjoyable moderate climbing up above. Oct 21, 2016