Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||FRA John Wilder, Kevin Campbell, George Urioste, Larry DeAngelo|
|Page Views:||1,149 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis is a good route. Much of the climbing looks difficult, but turns out to be surprisingly moderate. The short crux, on the other hand, is harder than it looks. In fact the upper part of this route (p4-5) is easier and better protected than the standard Magic Triangle route.
Pitch 1: Start about 40 feet to the left (east) of Midnight Oil. Easy rock leads to a belay ledge on the right about 60 or 80 feet up.
Pitch 2: Make a few tricky moves (5.10) right off the ledge, then continue up the crack above. After a flared slot, belay on small but good ledges.
Pitch 3: Climb the steep corner on the right and belay on the large midway ledge of the formation.
Pitch 4: Go up and left on white rock, then move back right to the varnished crack. The climbing becomes easy when the rock gets dark. Belay in the obvious alcove.
Pitch 5: Continue up the wide crack. What looks like it is going to be a horrendous offwidth turns out to be moderate face climbing.
From the final belay ledge, descend by rappeling the gully below. Four rappels (with a 60-meter rope) and a little scrambling take you to the ground.