Avg: 2.8 from 5 votes
Routes in Magic Mountain
|Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Birthday Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Bro's Before Holes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Chocolate Cornhole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Chocolate flakes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Dark and Long T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Edge of the Sun T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Texas Longneck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 750 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Larry DeAngelo, Jeffrey Raymond, John Wilder, Brandon Arens, Casey Bevando- July 2005|
|Page Views:||1,102 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||John Wilder on Jul 1, 2005|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionScary Larry has never believed that Red Rock Canyon ever gets hot. It can get warm, but not really hot. He doesn't really understand why people avoid the place in the summer. For this reason, when an ambitious and eager climber named Jeff Raymond actually wanted to climb in Red Rock on his birthday (July 2), Larry immediately went into action, pulling from his 'list' something appropriate to do along with recruiting another climber or two to make it a party for Jeff on his birthday.
After two more friends decided to join us, the plan was set- a new line up the Community Pillar in Pine Creek canyon. It should be noted that loose rock is present on the 5th pitch, thus making this pitch serious for the grade (or encouraging a detour onto the variation listed below).
About 150 feet left of Community Pillar is an obvious crack system. About 30 feet further left is a short chimney leading to a left-facing, varnished corner.
Pitch 1: Climb past the roof (5.10a), with good protection, and continue up the corner to a comfortable ledge.
Pitch 2: Follow the crack (5.9) to a good ledge at the base of the large chimney.
Pitch 3: On the left hand side of the monster chimney you are in is a smaller chimney. Head up this and then step right, following a crack to a dihedral. This leads to a stance at the top of the corner. 5.7, 100'.
Pitch 4: Head up the slab and crack above, eventually stepping right over a loose boulder and then following the crack until it ends. From here a short traverse to the left gains a second crack. Follow this crack until it ends at a huge ledge. 5.9, 190'. [Note: If rope drag or gear is an issue, just after the traverse is an optional hanging belay.]
Pitch 5: From here, head up the obvious slot above, following the chimney until you reach its end. From here, head left and up the slabs, aiming for a tree at the top. Belay here. 5.8 R, 190'. (A recommended alternative is to traverse left on easy rock and join the Honeycomb Chimney near the top of its 4th pitch.)
Descent: Descend as per Community Pillar.
Variation (5.9): Start at the first crack/chimney to the left of Community Pillar. This is about 30 feet right of the standard starting corner. Work your way straight up the squeeze to a comfy belay ledge. 5.9, 70'. A number 4.5 Camalot provides protection. The second pitch continues up the obvious chimney (5.8), joining the standard route at a large ledge. Rock quality and protection are issues.