All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Pine Creek Canyon > Magic Mountain > N Face

Brain Drain

Name: Brain Drain
Rating: 1.0

5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in North Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Andy & Jason's Mediocre Adventure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Birthday Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bros Before Holes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Chocolate Flakes T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Community Party Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dark and Long T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Edge of the Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Fido the Dragon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Midnight Oil T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Small Purchase T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Texas Longneck T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	36.12126, -115.49023
FA:	Johnny Ray, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views:	829 total · 4/month
Shared By:	Larry DeAngelo on Jun 25, 2008
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

Easy climbing goes up the chimney to a point where it is capped by a 20-foot roof. The first 18 feet of roof are straightforward, as you can simply continue chimneying until you reach a good ledge just before the lip. Turning the lip of the overhang is not easy, and may be harder if you are not tall. Just above the roof, it is possible to set up a belay at a hanging stance using large 2" to 4" cams. This is desirable in order to restock on gear that may be useful for the next overhang immediately above.

Pitch 2 continues up the crack and over the bulge. A short distance above the second overhang, the crack pretty much ends. Instead of the hoped-for hand jam, the next sixty feet feature a rounded, lichen-covered water runnel followed by a vegetated riparian ecosystem, all with no promise of protection. Strongly motivated to protect the fragile habitat, we rappelled from this point. A single rope will get you to the ground.

Location

About a hundred feet to the right of the first pitch of the Magic Triangle route, the lower face is split by a deep chimney that leads to a left-facing corner. Start here.