All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Pine Creek Canyon

Magic Mountain Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Magic Mountain

East Face(aka Dependent Variable Area) 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

North Face 23 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23

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Elevation:	4,968 ft	1,514 m
GPS:	36.11963, -115.48838 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	71,227 total · 260/month
Shared By:	John Peterson on Mar 8, 2004
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

Magic Mountain is to the left of Mescalito. The crags there are on the south (left) side of the creek and face to the north. The usually offer shade and cooler climbing than than the nearby sunny cliffs. The three main formations (from east to west as you enter the canyon) are the Community Pillar, the Magic Triangle, and the Bottle. Behind (to the south of) the main formations is the Crabby Appleton approach gully, which is often used as a descent route from the tall climbs.

Getting There

Take the normal Pine Creek Canyon trail and cross to the south side near the point where the streambed divides into the north and south forks. For the approach to the Magic Triangle and the Bottle, you will need to go a few hundred yards up the south fork.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Magic Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 6 ● Community Party Chimney Trad 6 pitches N Face
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 8 ● Texas Longneck Trad 6 pitches N Face
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 277 ● Community Pillar Trad 8 pitches N Face
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 72 ● Honeycomb Chimney Trad 8 pitches N Face
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 76 ● Small Purchase Trad N Face
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 31 ● Five Pack Trad 4 pitches N Face
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R 12 ● Birthday Party Trad 6 pitches N Face
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 25 ● Edge of the Sun Trad 3 pitches N Face
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 22 ● Dog Police Trad E Face(aka Dependent…
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 7 ● Bros Before Holes Trad N Face
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 18 ● Five and Dime Trad N Face
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 48 ● Chocolate Flakes Trad 4 pitches N Face
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 27 ● Saucerful of Secrets Trad 5 pitches N Face
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 9 ● Dark and Long Trad N Face