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Routes in Magic Mountain

Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bro's Before Holes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Cornhole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate flakes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark and Long T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Edge of the Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Texas Longneck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details


Magic Mountain is to the left of Mescalito. The crags there are on the south (left) side of the creek and face to the north. The usually offer shade and cooler climbing than than the nearby sunny cliffs. The three main formations (from east to west as you enter the canyon) are the Community Pillar, the Magic Triangle, and the Bottle. Behind (to the south of) the main formations is the Crabby Appleton approach gully, which is often used as a descent route from the tall climbs.

Getting There

Take the normal Pine Creek Canyon trail and cross to the south side near the point where the streambed divides into the north and south forks. For the approach to the Magic Triangle and the Bottle, you will need to go a few hundred yards up the south fork.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Magic Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Descent beta for routes in vicinity of Community Pillar: one 70 works perfectly on the raps, the first tree you see with slings at head height is an easy no-hands walkdown, head towards the Magic Triangle, don't bother with the rappel. The next tree is at the top of the Triangle gully proper, and is pretty short-50' or so off of small trees linked with a lot of cord and extended pretty far towards the lip. There's an interesting looking hole in the ledge not far down this rap-don't use this unless you brought 2 ropes. With a single, touch down beside the hole and walk climber's right to a slung boulder/nut anchor. A full rope rap puts you 25' above another tree, a solid scrub oak. I replaced the bleached slings on this one with a new dyneema. Another full length single rap leads to scrambling down the easternmost side of the gully to the final rap tree. On this rap, even with a 70, you'll come up 8 feet short. Aim slightly right to an easy varnished corner that is fine to downclimb at 5.3 or so. This lands you 20' from the base of Small Purchase.

There are 2 other descents detailed in Larry's Red Rock Odyssey: the (2 ropes required) Edge of the Sun rap route, which places you pretty far from your packs and involves a bit of hiking to return to the route base. The last is down the Crabby Appleton gully, which I would only choose as a last resort, if my rope was destroyed. The gully itself is an interesting hike, but trying to get down the thing quickly and safely without having been up the thing beforehand would involve leaving gear and possibly some "creative" rappels. Rapping off slings buried under small cairns HAS happened to people up there, don't be that guy. Nov 2, 2011

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