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Areas in Magic Mountain

East Face(aka Dependent Variable Area) 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
North Face 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Magic Mountain is to the left of Mescalito. The crags there are on the south (left) side of the creek and face to the north. The usually offer shade and cooler climbing than than the nearby sunny cliffs. The three main formations (from east to west as you enter the canyon) are the Community Pillar, the Magic Triangle, and the Bottle. Behind (to the south of) the main formations is the Crabby Appleton approach gully, which is often used as a descent route from the tall climbs.

Getting There

Take the normal Pine Creek Canyon trail and cross to the south side near the point where the streambed divides into the north and south forks. For the approach to the Magic Triangle and the Bottle, you will need to go a few hundred yards up the south fork.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Magic Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Texas Longneck
Trad 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 100
Community Pillar
Trad 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 35
Honeycomb Chimney
Trad 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 5
Magic Triangle
Trad 7 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 7
Birthday Party
Trad 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 48
Small Purchase
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
Five Pack
Trad 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Edge of the Sun
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
Dog Police
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 12
Five and Dime
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
Chocolate flakes
Trad 4 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 10
Saucerful of Secrets
Trad 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Texas Longneck N Face
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Community Pillar N Face
 100
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 8 pitches
Honeycomb Chimney N Face
 35
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 8 pitches
Magic Triangle N Face
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 7 pitches
Birthday Party N Face
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 6 pitches
Small Purchase N Face
 48
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Five Pack N Face
 19
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Edge of the Sun N Face
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Dog Police E Face(aka Dependent…
 11
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Five and Dime N Face
 12
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Chocolate flakes N Face
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
Saucerful of Secrets N Face
 10
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Magic Mountain »

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Photos

Descent beta for routes in vicinity of Community Pillar: one 70 works perfectly on the raps, the first tree you see with slings at head height is an easy no-hands walkdown, head towards the Magic Triangle, don't bother with the rappel. The next tree is at the top of the Triangle gully proper, and is pretty short-50' or so off of small trees linked with a lot of cord and extended pretty far towards the lip. There's an interesting looking hole in the ledge not far down this rap-don't use this unless you brought 2 ropes. With a single, touch down beside the hole and walk climber's right to a slung boulder/nut anchor. A full rope rap puts you 25' above another tree, a solid scrub oak. I replaced the bleached slings on this one with a new dyneema. Another full length single rap leads to scrambling down the easternmost side of the gully to the final rap tree. On this rap, even with a 70, you'll come up 8 feet short. Aim slightly right to an easy varnished corner that is fine to downclimb at 5.3 or so. This lands you 20' from the base of Small Purchase.

There are 2 other descents detailed in Larry's Red Rock Odyssey: the (2 ropes required) Edge of the Sun rap route, which places you pretty far from your packs and involves a bit of hiking to return to the route base. The last is down the Crabby Appleton gully, which I would only choose as a last resort, if my rope was destroyed. The gully itself is an interesting hike, but trying to get down the thing quickly and safely without having been up the thing beforehand would involve leaving gear and possibly some "creative" rappels. Rapping off slings buried under small cairns HAS happened to people up there, don't be that guy. Nov 2, 2011

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