Elevation: 4,968 ft
GPS: 36.12, -115.488 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 41,971 total · 210/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 8, 2004
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Magic Mountain is to the left of Mescalito. The crags there are on the south (left) side of the creek and face to the north. The usually offer shade and cooler climbing than than the nearby sunny cliffs. The three main formations (from east to west as you enter the canyon) are the Community Pillar, the Magic Triangle, and the Bottle. Behind (to the south of) the main formations is the Crabby Appleton approach gully, which is often used as a descent route from the tall climbs.

Getting There

Take the normal Pine Creek Canyon trail and cross to the south side near the point where the streambed divides into the north and south forks. For the approach to the Magic Triangle and the Bottle, you will need to go a few hundred yards up the south fork.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Magic Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Texas Longneck
Trad 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 123
Community Pillar
Trad 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 38
Honeycomb Chimney
Trad 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 5
Magic Triangle
Trad 7 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 8
Birthday Party
Trad 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 51
Small Purchase
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
Five Pack
Trad 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 14
Edge of the Sun
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Dog Police
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 14
Five and Dime
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 14
Chocolate Flakes
Trad 4 pitches
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 14
Saucerful of Secrets
Trad 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Texas Longneck N Face
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Community Pillar N Face
 123
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 8 pitches
Honeycomb Chimney N Face
 38
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 8 pitches
Magic Triangle N Face
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 7 pitches
Birthday Party N Face
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 6 pitches
Small Purchase N Face
 51
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Five Pack N Face
 20
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Edge of the Sun N Face
 14
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Dog Police E Face(aka Dependent…
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Five and Dime N Face
 14
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Chocolate Flakes N Face
 14
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
Saucerful of Secrets N Face
 14
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Magic Mountain »

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