Type: Trad, 155 ft
FA: Richard Harrison, Sal Mamusia, Paul Van Betten
Page Views: 2,411 total · 16/month
Shared By: Boneware on May 4, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This is a great route!!!
I am sure it would see lots of traffic if it were a little easier to get to, or surrounded by lots of other great climbs.
There is a little bit of everything, perfect hands, wide fingers, fingers, really thin fingers, few face moves, couple slopers, it has it all.
Almost all of it is on great rock, a tiny bit sandy in places but in all really very good and solid.

Location

From the main pink corner, head up the bushy gully to your left/south. There is a little 3/4th class near the top, not bad really, and a few loose rocks down low. Really the climb is worth it. You will see the crack heading up the white east facing face. It starts out wide, goes to hands, then to fingers and thinner, then to a little ledge, then thin fingers/edges to a small pine tree, then straight on up. The anchor is about 15 feet above the small pine tree on the face.

Protection

I had a double set to #3 camalot, singles of black and blue alien (.1, .2 camalot)and a set of nuts. Didn't use to many nuts, the crack in many places was to parallel. I would not have minded an extra green and yellow alien.

There are anchors at the top of the climb, it is made up of 3 fixed nuts, and could do with a little new webbing and reworking. The nuts are bomber, just the webbing/cord looks a little old. I replaced some and it could do with a little more.
The rap s just possible (5-8 Ft) rope remaining when using 2 50m ropes, a pair of 60's gets you down with plenty

Photos