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Routes in Magic Mountain - East

Cold Blue Steel T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Dog Police T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soloist Crack, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 155 ft
FA: Richard Harrison, Sal Mamusia, Paul Van Betten
Page Views: 2,064 total, 16/month
Shared By: Boneware on May 4, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is a great route!!!
I am sure it would see lots of traffic if it were a little easier to get to, or surrounded by lots of other great climbs.
There is a little bit of everything, perfect hands, wide fingers, fingers, really thin fingers, few face moves, couple slopers, it has it all.
Almost all of it is on great rock, a tiny bit sandy in places but in all really very good and solid.

Location

From the main pink corner, head up the bushy gully to your left/south. There is a little 3/4th class near the top, not bad really, and a few loose rocks down low. Really the climb is worth it. You will see the crack heading up the white east facing face. It starts out wide, goes to hands, then to fingers and thinner, then to a little ledge, then thin fingers/edges to a small pine tree, then straight on up. The anchor is about 15 feet above the small pine tree on the face.

Protection

I had a double set to #3 camalot, singles of black and blue alien (.1, .2 camalot)and a set of nuts. Didn't use to many nuts, the crack in many places was to parallel. I would not have minded an extra green and yellow alien.

There are anchors at the top of the climb, it is made up of 3 fixed nuts, and could do with a little new webbing and reworking. The nuts are bomber, just the webbing/cord looks a little old. I replaced some and it could do with a little more.
The rap s just possible (5-8 Ft) rope remaining when using 2 50m ropes, a pair of 60's gets you down with plenty
Mary Lane
Nevada
Mary Lane   Nevada
Gorgeous splitter crack. Very thin and I thought the second pitch definitely felt harder than 10a as the Handren guide suggests but maybe I'm just a pansy. As JW says, you do need a couple blacks for the second pitch and all the small gear you have so don't waste it all for a mid-way belay. I'd recommend bringing nuts. I did not think the approach was a bad as suggested. Just your typical RR uphill, ridge hike. A little brushy. We roped up when it turned to 5th class. Feb 3, 2015
Michael Kimm
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10
Michael Kimm   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10
Beautiful route. I found it really chill at the grade, but I have really small hands and fingers. A pain to get to, but well worth it! Mar 15, 2014
Simply outstanding! The rap anchor could definitely use some love - bring a knife and a good length of tan or green color cord/webbing to replace the rat's nest on the fixed nuts up there. 2-60M ropes will let you rap past the 4th class approach. We totally expected a nightmare of stuck rope in the oak trees on the starting ledge, but pulled down surprisingly clean and easy.

As far as one or two pitches - you'd need to belay off some microcams/tiny nuts if you stop at the ledge. Blast to the top for 170' of finger-jamming goodness. Feb 20, 2013
Boneware  
 
I did this as a single pitch, not sure why, maybe it just made more sense.

I had a pair of 50's and just made it. Oct 5, 2011
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
Got on this thing this weekend. Oh man, what a little gem. probably one of the best cracks at Red Rocks.

A real buttkick to get up there and it still looks like crap from the base but then you get on it and will be blown away by the movement. Mar 26, 2008
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c
Some of the best 5.10 crack climbing I have done in RR- spectacular finger crack on the first pitch.

Bring more than one black alien and some small nuts for the second pitch- I would say the second pitch is just as hard as the first, but not as sustained.

Overall, amazing route. Well worth the hike. Mar 23, 2008