Avg: 3.5 from 13 votes
|Type:||Trad, 155 ft|
|FA:||Richard Harrison, Sal Mamusia, Paul Van Betten|
|Page Views:||2,064 total, 16/month|
|Shared By:||Boneware on May 4, 2007|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis is a great route!!!
I am sure it would see lots of traffic if it were a little easier to get to, or surrounded by lots of other great climbs.
There is a little bit of everything, perfect hands, wide fingers, fingers, really thin fingers, few face moves, couple slopers, it has it all.
Almost all of it is on great rock, a tiny bit sandy in places but in all really very good and solid.
LocationFrom the main pink corner, head up the bushy gully to your left/south. There is a little 3/4th class near the top, not bad really, and a few loose rocks down low. Really the climb is worth it. You will see the crack heading up the white east facing face. It starts out wide, goes to hands, then to fingers and thinner, then to a little ledge, then thin fingers/edges to a small pine tree, then straight on up. The anchor is about 15 feet above the small pine tree on the face.
ProtectionI had a double set to #3 camalot, singles of black and blue alien (.1, .2 camalot)and a set of nuts. Didn't use to many nuts, the crack in many places was to parallel. I would not have minded an extra green and yellow alien.
There are anchors at the top of the climb, it is made up of 3 fixed nuts, and could do with a little new webbing and reworking. The nuts are bomber, just the webbing/cord looks a little old. I replaced some and it could do with a little more.
The rap s just possible (5-8 Ft) rope remaining when using 2 50m ropes, a pair of 60's gets you down with plenty