All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (10) Pine Creek… > Magic Mountain > N Face

Saucerful of Secrets

Name: Saucerful of Secrets
Rating: 3.5

5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in North Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	[Redacted] T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Andy & Jason's Mediocre Adventure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Birthday Party T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Chocolate Flakes T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Community Party Chimney T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dark and Long T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Edge of the Sun T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Midnight Oil T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Texas Longneck T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA:	Unlisted
Page Views:	3,865 total · 23/month
Shared By:	George Perkins on Nov 16, 2009
Admins:	Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

Saucerful of Secrets features a hidden beautiful overhanging arete pitch that is worth the effort required to get to it. This route is likely shaded much of the time and is likely relatively well-protected from the wind.

The first 2 pitches are shared with Cartwright Corner. Climb cracks on the general right side of the large bush-filled chimney right of Community Pillar- it's not as bad as it appears (2 pitches, 5.8, 100', and 5.9, 120'). The obvious overhanging prow looms above. A 50' pitch 3 (5.7) up blocks gets you to the base of the arete.

The crux prow pitch is hard 5.11 for the better part of 150'. Clip a bolt just above the belay, then climb a thin crack to a hand crack, then step left of the prow. Make wild moves, switching sides of the bolted overhanging arete to a bolted anchor. A short but fun 50' all-bolted 5.10c pitch up an off-balance flared corner reaches the top.

Rap the route with 2 ropes [or see comments below-- there may be other ways it works out]

Location

This secluded route is approached by climbing the 1st 2 pitches of Cartwright Corner, which is just right of Community Pillar on the south side of Pine Creek Canyon.