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Routes in North Face

Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bro's Before Holes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Cornhole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate flakes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark and Long T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Edge of the Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Texas Longneck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Unlisted
Page Views: 1,539 total · 14/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Nov 16, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Saucerful of Secrets features a hidden beautiful overhanging arete pitch that is worth the effort required to get to it. This route is likely shaded much of the time and is likely relatively well-protected from the wind.

The first 2 pitches are shared with Cartwright Corner. Climb cracks on the general right side of the large bush-filled chimney right of Community Pillar- it's not as bad as it appears (2 pitches, 5.8, 100', and 5.9, 120'). The obvious overhanging prow looms above. A 50' pitch 3 (5.7) up blocks gets you to the base of the arete.

The crux prow pitch is hard 5.11 with no rests for the better part of 150'. Clip a bolt just above the belay, then climb a thin crack to a hand crack, then step left of the prow. Make wild moves, switching sides of the bolted overhanging arete to a bolted anchor. A short but fun 50' all-bolted 5.10c pitch up an off-balance flared corner reaches the top.

Rap the route with 2 ropes.

Location

This secluded route is approached by climbing the 1st 2 pitches of Cartwright Corner, which is just right of Community Pillar on the south side of Pine Creek Canyon.

Protection

Single rack from TCUs to 3", including 10+ quickdraws.

Photos

Scott Bennett
  5.11c
Scott Bennett  
  5.11c
Cool climb in an unlikley spot. Lots of cool arete sequences, seperated by good stances. Definitely felt easier than the neighboring crack climb, "Dark and Long". May 8, 2010
Will Wright
  5.11d
Will Wright  
  5.11d
This is probably the best arete climb I have ever done. There is a certain blind-ish move crossing the edge rightward that is unforgettable.

Unfortunately, you have to climb 300ft of choss to gain the good stuff. Maybe the best way is to climb a nearby route, and rap in from the top? Didn't do the 10c finish, but it looks good. Apr 10, 2016
Danie White
SLC, UT
 
Danie White   SLC, UT
 
One of the best single pitches I’ve done in a looong time! Cool overhanging crack moves (slightly sandy) to a bolted laser cut arête made of that sought-after black desert varnish. Nov 29, 2017
We linked the whole arete with a 70. It was worth the choss fest to get up. Would have been better to also climb the other good ones nearby, but still remains a memorable climb. I wouldn't have wanted to be without my black alien for the tiny crack at the start of the arete. We also managed to rappel with the single 70M rope. There may have been shananigans, but nothing too crazy. Apr 22, 2018

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