Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Unlisted
Page Views: 4,353 total · 24/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Nov 16, 2009
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Aaron Mc

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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Saucerful of Secrets features a hidden beautiful overhanging arete pitch that is worth the effort required to get to it. This route is likely shaded much of the time and is likely relatively well-protected from the wind.

The first 2 pitches are shared with Cartwright Corner. Climb cracks on the general right side of the large bush-filled chimney right of Community Pillar- it's not as bad as it appears (2 pitches, 5.8, 100', and 5.9, 120'). The obvious overhanging prow looms above. A 50' pitch 3 (5.7) up blocks gets you to the base of the arete.

The crux prow pitch is hard 5.11 for the better part of 150'. Clip a bolt just above the belay, then climb a thin crack to a hand crack, then step left of the prow. Make wild moves, switching sides of the bolted overhanging arete to a bolted anchor. A short but fun 50' all-bolted 5.10c pitch up an off-balance flared corner reaches the top.

Rap the route with 2 ropes [or see comments below-- there may be other ways it works out]

Location Suggest change

This secluded route is approached by climbing the 1st 2 pitches of Cartwright Corner, which is just right of Community Pillar on the south side of Pine Creek Canyon.

Protection Suggest change

Single rack from TCUs to 3", including 10+ quickdraws.

Photos

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