Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Saucerful of Secrets
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 26
votes
Routes in North Face
|
|
Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Andy & Jason's Mediocre Adventure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Birthday Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Chocolate Flakes T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Community Party Chimney T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
|
|
Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Dark and Long T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Edge of the Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Fido the Dragon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
|
|
Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Midnight Oil T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
North Face | 9066 T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Texas Longneck T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 36.12126, -115.49023 |
| FA: | Unlisted |
| Page Views: | 4,635 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Nov 16, 2009 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
Saucerful of Secrets features a hidden beautiful overhanging arete pitch that is worth the effort required to get to it. This route is likely shaded much of the time and is likely relatively well-protected from the wind.
The first 2 pitches are shared with Cartwright Corner. Climb cracks on the general right side of the large bush-filled chimney right of Community Pillar- it's not as bad as it appears (2 pitches, 5.8, 100', and 5.9, 120'). The obvious overhanging prow looms above. A 50' pitch 3 (5.7) up blocks gets you to the base of the arete.
The crux prow pitch is hard 5.11 for the better part of 150'. Clip a bolt just above the belay, then climb a thin crack to a hand crack, then step left of the prow. Make wild moves, switching sides of the bolted overhanging arete to a bolted anchor. A short but fun 50' all-bolted 5.10c pitch up an off-balance flared corner reaches the top.
Rap the route with 2 ropes [or see comments below-- there may be other ways it works out]
Location
This secluded route is approached by climbing the 1st 2 pitches of Cartwright Corner, which is just right of Community Pillar on the south side of Pine Creek Canyon.
8 Comments