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Routes in Magic Mountain

Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bro's Before Holes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Cornhole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate flakes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark and Long T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Edge of the Sun T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Texas Longneck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: 1977 Joe Herbst, Tom Kaufman, Larry Hamilton, Scott Woodruff, Steve Allen
Page Views: 4,055 total · 25/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This excellent route climbs the crack system on the right side of the Bottle.

Pitch 1: Climb up to a short chimney and follow it to the large ledge.

Pitch 2: Move to the right end of the ledge and climb straight up the crack system, which becomes an offwidth, followed by a beautiful handcrack.

Pitch 3: Climb up the dihedral a ways, then move left to avoid the large roof. Just above the roof, climb back right to gain the main dihedral on the right side of the Bottle. (Do not continue straight up the varnished crack above- it is a different route.) It may be desirable to belay just above the roof and then do a very short (10-15 foot) traverse to the right and set up a new belay in the dihedral.

Pitch 4: Go straight up the dihedral until it starts to lean right, then make a few face moves before regaining the jamcrack at the lip of the roof .

The main descent options are to either rappel Edge of the Sun via 3 long rappels from bolted stations, or continue to the top of the Magic Triangle formation via a few 5.5 pitches and go down the Crabby Appleton gully with a few short rappels.

Protection

Normal rack including at least one big cam (number 4 Camalot or bigger).
Mary Lane
Nevada
Mary Lane   Nevada
Notes: My main note is that the description for this route must have been written by a big dude. I am 5'8" female with hands larger than most girls I meet. If he says handjam it was a fistjam, if he says fistjam it was stacks and butterflies. Great route, very unique and still riddled with friable rock but that shouldn't stop you from climbing it. 3 double rope raps from Edge of the Sun to the west, it was getting dark but the rap stations all appeared to be in decent shape and were not difficult to locate. We still haven't quite dialed the approach to the base of the Bottle but its never too bad.

Gear: Double rack .3-#1, triples #2 & #3, single #4 & #5, nuts. This was plenty and made us feel very safe.

P1: skipped by scrambling up behind a tower from climbers left via relative easy terrain + a couple of heads up moves with a little exposure

P2: Unless you are solid on OW or competent 5.10 trad leader you absolutely want a #5. "Beautiful handcrack" for only about the last 20 ft of the route, was cupped hands for me (female). Some (easy)bouldery moves off the deck. Very fun, protects well, straightforward pitch with some friable rock. Build anchor with any gear in the .75-#3 range

P3: Head directly up the corner and traverse left under the roof or head left off the deck onto the arete. Poor protection and friable rock until you come over the bulge and traverse back right into the crack. .75 was key to protect above the arete. Rope drag was a bitch.

P4: Head left into the huge, looming corner. Depending on where you belay makes a difference but about 20 ft before the actual roof that juts out to the right there is a 4"-5" wide ledge that you will traverse right onto. The 5.7 "huecos" are hard to see until you are right on top of them and are only 5.7 if you are 6ft tall. I am 5'8" and the "huecos" although very good were extremely reachy for me and there is no pro until you regain the corner. Definitely save a #4 for the final section of the pitch that was stacks (not fists) for me and my boyfriend.

Another classic adventure up Magic Mountain. Does anyone know why it is called MM? I have always been curious. Feb 22, 2016
sqwirll
Las Vegas
  5.10-
sqwirll   Las Vegas
  5.10-
I liked this route a lot. You can skip the mediocre 1st pitch by 3rd classing in from the left. Save some hand size cams for belay at the top of the second pitch. A #5 C4 camalot is handy for protecting the wide bit on pitch 2.

@Andy- the second pitch anchors of Edge of The Sun are about 120' down from the top. You have to work west a bit to get to them, but they're easy to see. They're visible on the arete after you pull the roof on pitch 3. Apr 23, 2012
Will probably just do em ground up with a couple of volunteers to help schlep all the replacement gear, thanks for the info. Had thought maybe just some new webbing, sounds like actual work, though. Feb 13, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10b
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10b
Well, yes, some observations about the anchors on Edge of the Sun: the top anchors' bolts look okay but older SMC anchors always kind of tweak me out. The top anchors could use some chains. Gina and I did a full 200 foot rap to a ledge that is the 1st pitch belay for Edge of the Sun. Although this isn't the recommended rap it worked out OK for us... but we had to come totally off rappel and walk about 10 feet to the anchors. The reason why we ended up here and not at the top of the 2nd pitch of Edge of the Sun was because I failed to locate those anchors (hidden?). The anchor at the 1st pitch belay of Edge of the Sun is in some serious need of replacement. The 3rd (if rappelled the prescribed way that is west into the Crabby Appleton gully) rappel anchor looks to be in good condition. It'd be worth it to go up there and take a look for yourself though. Feb 10, 2012
Any comments on the Edge of the Sun raps, Andy? I had theorized that the anchors might need some work.....

Jblack, great photos! Makes me want to jump on this thing! Feb 10, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10b
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10b
If the 4th pitch were in a single pitch environment it would be a 4-star classic. The very fluid movement of 5.8 crack and face climbing culminates with a burly and extremely pleasing finish. Some of the best 5.10 climbing, although brief, I have done in RR. Feb 9, 2012
jblackattack blac
las vegas, nv
 
jblackattack blac   las vegas, nv
 
Did this route yesterday and found it to be a very fun route. Definitely advisable to stay with in the cracks when possible. Found lots of loose friable rock just outside the cracks on the first 3 pitches which keeps you honest for sure. 4th pitch was great with the roof and final lay back capping it all off Oct 23, 2008
L. Hamilton  
 
Historical note: The name "Bottle Bill," a Joe Herbst pun, alludes to a beverage-container deposit law that was being debated in Nevada at the time -- and of course also to the formation's bottle-like shape. "Five Pack" connected this theme to the 5-man FA party. Mar 1, 2005

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