All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Pine Creek Canyon > Magic Mountain > N Face

Magic Triangle

Name: Magic Triangle
Rating: 2.0

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R

Routes in North Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Andy & Jason's Mediocre Adventure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Birthday Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bros Before Holes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Chocolate Flakes T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Community Party Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dark and Long T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Edge of the Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Fido the Dragon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Midnight Oil T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Small Purchase T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Texas Longneck T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
GPS:	36.12126, -115.49023
FA:	Joe Herbst and Randal Grandstaff, 1977
Page Views:	2,434 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004 · Updates
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

This route starts way on the left side of the base section of the Magic Triangle formation. Two pitches of crack climbing lead to a broken, 4th class area at mid-height. Go right, connecting the ledge systems with an interesting climb across a chasm. The long traverse brings you to cracks on the right side of the upper triangle. The next pitch goes up to a horizontal break. Then move left to a spot where you can climb over the overhang (5.9) and continue to a belay near the right edge of the wall. The crux pitch goes up past some soft rock to a smooth traverse left (limited pro) to reach a thin crack, which is followed up to a belay stance. The last pitch is easier and goes right to the summit of the formation.