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Routes in Magic Mountain

Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bro's Before Holes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Cornhole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate flakes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark and Long T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Edge of the Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Texas Longneck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 600 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Joe Herbst, Randal Grandstaff
Page Views: 1,131 total · 7/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route starts way on the left side of the base section of the Magic Triangle formation. Two pitches of crack climbing lead to a broken, 4th class area at mid-height. Go right, connecting the ledge systems with an interesting climb across a chasm. The long traverse brings you to cracks on the right side of the upper triangle. The next pitch goes up to a horizontal break. Then move left to a spot where you can climb over the overhang (5.9) and continue to a belay near the right edge of the wall. The crux pitch goes up past some soft rock to a smooth traverse left (limited pro) to reach a thin crack, which is followed up to a belay stance. The last pitch is easier and goes right to the summit of the formation.

Protection

Large cams are useful on the second pitch; small cams near the crux.

Photos

John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
The first two pitches of this route make for a pleasant outing if you're just looking for something to do. A single rope gets you back to the base with two rappels, although watch your ends on the first rap as the rope barely reaches the belay stance. An intermediate rappel about 15' above provides an easier (although less comfortable) option. Aug 19, 2007
Chris S  
Pitch 4 and 5 were fantastic - but pitch 3 is not straightforward. How far the traverse is in photos and descriptions isn't evident when you're on the pitch. If you do this to the top, then keep traversing right until a deep narrow chimney is reached. A flat horizontal traverse from the top of pitch 2 is exposed. Alternatively, you can climb up and right to a tree (4th class, 60'). Rappel off the tree (50') to the base of the chimney. Climb up the chimney (5.8, 40') - staying on the outside makes for fun stemming. At the top of the chimney, continue to traverse to the far right of the balcony ledge to the base of pitch 4.

In the end, this climb is tricky and interesting, but not classic. It doesn't deserve any stars. Sep 30, 2009
Craig Martin
Park City
Craig Martin   Park City
The rappel anchors for this route will need some updating sometime in the relatively near future, IMO. They are all in fine shape for now as long as you don't mind rappeling from miles of tat connecting skinny trees, chockstones and fixed nuts. May 6, 2011
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
I did this route several years ago and thought it was a worth-while trad adventure. Didn't Urioste recommend in the old little Red guidebook? When we got to the rap station in the gully we realized it had been obliterated by rock fall. We fashioned an anchor and a few more on the way down - something huge had gone that way! Hope what we left for anchors has been replaced by now! Jun 27, 2011
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
 
Tom Fralich   Fort Collins, CO
 
Three stars for the first 2 pitches. Definitely worth doing if in the area. Rap with a single 60m rope back down the route. I wanted to link these pitches to the upper pitches of Masquerade, but this ended up being more involved than it appeared. May 8, 2012
We replaced the jungle of old tat at the top of the first pitch with a solid static rope anchor and a beefy rap ring. Nov 29, 2014

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