Type: Trad, 600 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Joe Herbst, Randal Grandstaff
Page Views: 1,488 total · 8/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This route starts way on the left side of the base section of the Magic Triangle formation. Two pitches of crack climbing lead to a broken, 4th class area at mid-height. Go right, connecting the ledge systems with an interesting climb across a chasm. The long traverse brings you to cracks on the right side of the upper triangle. The next pitch goes up to a horizontal break. Then move left to a spot where you can climb over the overhang (5.9) and continue to a belay near the right edge of the wall. The crux pitch goes up past some soft rock to a smooth traverse left (limited pro) to reach a thin crack, which is followed up to a belay stance. The last pitch is easier and goes right to the summit of the formation.

Protection

Large cams are useful on the second pitch; small cams near the crux.

Photos