Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Magic Mountain

Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bro's Before Holes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Cornhole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate flakes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark and Long T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Edge of the Sun T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Texas Longneck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,281 total, 9/month
Shared By: John Hegyes on Sep 24, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


13 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Five and Dime is located on the same pillar as Small Purchase which is on the east side of the next gully west of Cartwright Corner. This gully is a rap route for Community Pillar and it provides the left margin of Magic Triangle.

The route climbs the razor-edge arĂȘte just 15 feet left of Small Purchase. There are four awkwardly placed bolts leading to a roof. The climbing here is technical and balance oriented. Once at the roof, go left to a finger crack and head up to the top, past one more bolt. Use the same 3-bolt anchor as Small Purchase to rappel 100 feet.

Protection

Small rack, 5 bolts

Photos

Mostafa Noori
Fresno, CA
  5.10+
Mostafa Noori   Fresno, CA
  5.10+
I'm no expert but the bolts looked pretty old and rusted. It can also be a little awkward cleaning if you don't have someone seconding it. Jan 29, 2014
Buuuuurrrrrrllllly. Jan 21, 2014
harihari
VANCOUVER
  5.10+
harihari   VANCOUVER
  5.10+
More like 10+. Despite the odd position of the first two bolts, this is a SUPERB pitch. Bring small nuts, a .3 camalot, a blue alien and a #3 camalot. Nov 13, 2011
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
  5.10d
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
  5.10d
I really like this route. I'm not sure about 10b. If you stay on the hard side of the arete with the bolts it felt like a good/ hard 10d to me. Either way, awesome combo deal if you hit small purchase! Apr 23, 2009