Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Rob & Pat Dezonia, Jerry Handren. Nov 2006
Page Views: 1,330 total · 18/month
Shared By: Matt Kuehl on Nov 14, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Bro's Before Holes is a must-do for the offwidth and squeeze enthusiast. This route climbs a wide crack requiring some physical effort and mental-pysch to send. Protected primarily with Big Bro's this climb is a unique experience destine to be added to your list of stories from Red Rock.

Location

The obvious wide crack on the south facing corner between Midnight Oil and Bottle Bill.

Protection

Double #6, x3 Green and Blue Big Bros.
#4 protects the top section on easier but loose terrain.

Photos

There's currently a left-behind anchor up there, the tri-cam and purple nut are recent but the rest might be pretty old and is on shallow nuts. The anchor ought to be at the top of the business, under the hourglass choss but that would require large cams or (ahem!) hardware. Nov 14, 2012
Matt Kuehl
Las Vegas
  5.10c
Matt Kuehl   Las Vegas
  5.10c
A write up I did years back about my experience climbing this route. Jul 3, 2017
Josh Janes    
 
An alternate rack might be to bring a pair of VG9's, a pair of #6 Camalots, and a single #4 Camalot for the top. This will allow you to be on TR pushing two cams up ahead of you for the entire crack. Also, it looks like the anchor has been replaced - in any case, it's bomber. Nov 7, 2018
Matt Kuehl
Las Vegas
  5.10c
Matt Kuehl   Las Vegas
  5.10c
You can push VGs if you want. But leading on Bros is what gives this route its character and is after all, sort of the theme of the route. Nov 9, 2018
Josh Janes    
 
Ha! Leading on Big Bros may have given YOU character, Matt, but I’d say being a splitter wide crack is what characterizes the climb. If you want contrived difficulty or sketch factor, by all means have at it! Nov 9, 2018
Matt Kuehl
Las Vegas
  5.10c
Matt Kuehl   Las Vegas
  5.10c
Fair enough, and I just love to ruffle some feathers and let my crusty soul out. Way to get after it! It’s a cool line. There’s some more good wideness out there for ya if you haven’t had your fix yet! Nov 9, 2018