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Routes in Magic Mountain

Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bro's Before Holes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chocolate Cornhole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate flakes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark and Long T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Edge of the Sun T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Texas Longneck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Rob & Pat Dezonia, Jerry Handren. Nov 2006
Page Views: 1,068 total, 17/month
Shared By: Matt Kuehl on Nov 14, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Bro's Before Holes is a must-do for the offwidth and squeeze enthusiast. This route climbs an intimidating wide crack requiring significant physical effort and mental-pysch to send. Protected primarily with Big Bro's this climb is a unique experience destine to be added to your list of stories from Red Rock.

Location

The obvious wide crack on the south facing corner between Midnight Oil and Bottle Bill.

Protection

Double #6, x3 Green and Blue Big Bros.

Old #4 protects the top section on easier but loose terrain.

Photos

Matt Kuehl
Las Vegas
 
Matt Kuehl   Las Vegas
 
A write up I did years back about my experience climbing this route. Jul 3, 2017
There's currently a left-behind anchor up there, the tri-cam and purple nut are recent but the rest might be pretty old and is on shallow nuts. The anchor ought to be at the top of the business, under the hourglass choss but that would require large cams or (ahem!) hardware. Nov 14, 2012